• Gawie se Water is a canal/furrow (also referred to as a diverted watercourse) built in the 19th century. 

• It diverts water from the Witte River up in the mountains into the valleys/farms in the Bovlei area (Wellington) by means of a hand‐excavated canal, through solid rock. 

• The purpose was irrigation — supplying water for vineyards and farms in a hotter part of the valley, especially in summer. 

• The “Gawie” in Gawie se Water is Gawie Retief, farmer of the farm Kanetfontein in the Bovlei area. 

• Andrew Geddes Bain, whose name the pass bears, once offered to construct the canal/furrow at a quoted cost, but the farmers decided to do it themselves.

• The work by Gawie Retief was completed around 1860. 

• The canal is about 1,000 m of canal and up to 4 m deep in places through bedrock. 

• It was hand‐dug (before explosives/dynamite was common) using labour intensive methods (rock‐heating, crowbars, picks etc.) 

• Although Bain’s offer was cheaper, the farmers ended up paying almost three times what Bain had quoted.

• Over time there’s been concern that the canal/furrow diverts so much water that downstream users (particularly in the village of Bain’s Kloof) have very reduced flow in the Witte River, especially in dry seasons. 

• Ecological concerns have been raised (river ecology, fish etc.) with the abstraction of water from the Witte via the Gawie se Water system. 

• Because of how the water is diverted, some describe Gawie se Water as creating a case of a river flowing to two oceans: The Witte River naturally flows into the Breede River (which goes to the Indian Ocean), while the diverted water via the canal eventually ends up in the Berg River system (Atlantic Ocean). 

There’s also a local ritual / practice among some people: when tasting highland whisky, they would dilute or “open” it with fresh water “straight‐out‐of” the stream at Gawie se Water, considered among the purest spots.

The canal known as Gawie se Water diverts water from the Witte River for 1000m through solid bedrock, dug up to 4m deep by hand using rudimentary tools / Photo: Trygve Roberts

After a stop at the main view site near the summit, which offers sweeping views of the mountains and valleys around Wellington, it was time to push on to Ceres via Michells Pass and from there up the Gydo Pass and up to the Koue Bokkeveld, where the fruit trees were blossoming in an eye catching natural display of colour.

There are extensive roadworks taking place between the Gydo Pass summit and the hamlet of Op die Berg, with lengthy delays of up to 40 minutes. We nailed both stop/go's at exactly the right time, whcih meant our ETA at our designated lunch stop was half an hour ahead of schedule.

Driving down to the Balie's Gat camp grounds is something of an adventure. The little pass, named after its builder - Piet Esterhuizen - twists through some huge weathered Cederbeg sandstone formations, before arriving at a razor sharp hairpin bend, where the views suddenly open into a deep and rugged valley. We all geared down to low range for the descent as cameras clicked and videos whirred.

 The MPSA convoy ascending the Piet Esterhuizen Pass / Photo: Trygve Roberts

The campsite is an oasis of greenery and tall trees bisected by a crystal clear stream with magnificent rock pools. It must be a heavenly place in summer. A mountain fire further north was causing smoke in the valley, but the farmer assured us it would be highly unlikely that the fire would reach their farm. As things turned out he was right, as a day later it started raining, which ended the fire advancing.

Farm owners, Marius and Yvonne, put on a special farm produce sale for our group and some of our guests solved their digestive issues the next day after eating one too many of those delicious dried peaches.

We had to retrace our route back to Op die Berg for a final refuel before entering the Cederberg Wilderness area. The next opportunity would be two days later in Clanwilliam. Our convoy caused quite a log-jam at the diesel pump!

Driving the Blinkberg Pass as always a joy / Photo: Trygve Roberts

The last leg of the day took us past Houdenbek farms and on to the Blinkberg and Grootrivierhoogte passes, arriving at our central base for the next four nights at Cedarberg Park, Kromrivier. There was a distinct drop in temperature with a commensurate increase in the wind speed, which was forecast to reach gusts of 75 kph. Our group was split between the chalets and the luxury tents. The shop at the farm was doing a brisk trade in firewood and Blitz, as guests battened down the hatches in preparation for what would be the coldest night of the tour, when the temperature dropped to 2C.

All the tents and chalets have wood burning heaters, so keeping warm was a pleasure. Some of the guests fire making talents (or lack of them) came to the fore, as the Whats App group was kept busy with messages of fire making advice. Speaking of connectivity, the signal at Kromrivier is excellent and available FOC to each accommodation unit.

The restaurant and kitchen staff were on point, with delicious food being served hot and timeously. The local Kromrivier wines were a hit as well. In short, we had a lot of happy campers.

Drone photo of Cederberg Park (our tour base) by guest Louis Erasmus

Next newsletter: The Big Storm

HISTORY OF THE CEDERBERG

To enhance the story of our tour through the Cederberg, having some knowledge on the history, adds a new layer to the enjoyment of travel.

Long before European settlement, the Cederberg was inhabited by San (Bushmen) and Khoi people. These indigenous groups were hunter‑gatherers (San) or pastoralists / foragers (Khoi), and made deep use of the mountain valleys, caves and rock overhangs. 

One of the most enduring legacies of these early peoples is the rock art: paintings and engravings in caves and overhangs throughout the region. Sites such as the Stadsaal Caves in the Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve have paintings that depict animals (including elephant figures), human figures, and scenes which may date back thousands of years (though exact dating is still debated). 

 Stadsaal Caves, Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve / Photo: Trygve Roberts

 Heerenlogement (“Gentlemen’s Cave”) is another site of early European travellers record, but also has older inscriptions.

These rock art sites not only illustrate the presence of pre‑colonial human occupation but also show the spiritual, social, and ecological knowledge of those peoples: grazing patterns, seasons, hunting, and interaction with the landscape. The remoteness and ruggedness of the terrain likely helped preserve many of these artworks.

From the 18th century onward, European settlers began penetrating the edges of the Cederberg, mainly for grazing, agriculture, and the extraction of natural resources. The mountainous terrain was less hospitable than the coastal plains, but the valleys and slopes were used for stock farming (sheep, goats), especially during wetter seasons or in times of drought when lowland grazing failed. 

Missionary activity also played a role. For example, the Moravian mission station at Wupperthal (in the northern part of the region) became a focal point for settlement, agriculture, and social structure among both local Khoi/Khoi‑derived communities and later settlers. 

A unique environmental feature of the region is the Clanwilliam cedar (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis), endemic to the area. The name “Cederberg” is derived from this tree. 

Large‑scale exploitation of natural resources started in earnest during the 19th and early 20th centuries. Cedar wood was heavily felled for construction (including telegraph/telephone poles — for example, some 7,200 cedar trees were reportedly used for telephone poles between Piketberg and Calvinia) and furniture. Other plant products, such as rooibos tea, buchu, and bark from plants (“Rockwood bark”) were harvested for commercial use. 

Fires (both natural and human‑induced), overgrazing, and the harvesting of dead wood further reduced cedar populations. Grazing in times of drought meant stock were driven into more fragile mountain slopes, causing erosion and damage. 

An early attempt to protect the area came in 1876, when a forester was appointed to oversee Crown Land in the mountains. This was possibly the first formal conservation move. 

By the mid‑20th century, awareness of the environmental damage increased. In 1967, the removal of dead cedar trees was halted. Then in 1973, the area was officially proclaimed the Cederberg Wilderness. This proclamation effectively ended commercial harvesting of many resources, broadening protection. 

The Cederberg Wilderness Area is now one part of a larger network of conservation in the region including the Matjiesriver Nature Reserve and the Cederberg Conservancy (private landowners cooperating for conservation).

In 1997 the Cederberg Conservancy was established as a voluntary agreement among landowners to manage the environment sustainably.

Cedar Tree / Photo: Wikipedia

In 2004, the area gained World Heritage status as part of the Cape Floral Region Protected Areas, recognizing its globally significant biodiversity and the importance of preserving its unique plant species and ecosystems. 

The Cederberg is a place of deep geological time, ancient human presence, ecological uniqueness, and evolving human‑environment relationships. Its rocks and plants tell stories of millions of years; its rock art speaks of human lives long before colonial frontiers; the scars of cedar logging and overuse show how fragile natural systems can be; and its conservation today is testament to both what has been lost and what still can be preserved.

If we look ahead, the history thus far suggests that preserving places like the Cederberg isn’t simply about “freezing” them. It involves active decisions: how to use land, how to share space, how to allow people to experience the wild without destroying it. The Cederberg’s history is ongoing, and its future will depend on how well society can learn from its past.

TECHNICAL TIPS - CARING FOR YOUR WINCH

One of the most neglected pieces of equipment on a 4x4 is the winch. here are a few tips on how to take care of that very useful piece of recovery gear. 

1. Clean After Every Use

• Mud, sand, water, and dirt can easily damage internal components.

• Use fresh water and a soft brush to rinse off dirt, especially after mud or saltwater exposure.

Let it dry fully before storing or covering it.

2. Lubricate Moving Parts

• Apply a light coat of lithium grease or winch-specific lubricant to:

  • Gears (if accessible)

  • Clutch lever

Fairlead rollers (if using a roller fairlead)

3. Inspect Electrical Connections

• Check all wiring and connectors for corrosion, fraying, or loose terminals.

• Apply dielectric grease to terminals to prevent moisture ingress.

Make sure your solenoid/relay box is dry and sealed.

4. Spool the Cable Properly

• Always re-spool the line evenly and under tension after use.

• Loose or uneven winding can damage the cable and drum.

Use gloves when handling the cable to avoid injury from burrs or frays.

5. Inspect the Winch Line Regularly

• Steel Cable: Look for frays, kinks, and rust. Replace if damaged.

• Synthetic Rope: Check for abrasion, cuts, and UV damage. Wash with mild soap if dirty.

Pro Tip: If you use a synthetic rope, consider a protective sleeve where it contacts abrasive surfaces.

6. Test the Winch Monthly

• Unspool and respool about 10 feet to check for:

  • Motor operation

  • Remote function

  • Clutch engagement

Better to find problems in the garage than on a trail.

7. Monitor Your Battery

• Winches draw high current, so ensure your battery is in good condition.

• Use a deep-cycle battery if you winch frequently.

Check that your alternator is charging properly.

8. Store the Remote Properly

• Keep wired and wireless remotes dry, clean, and secure.

Don’t leave the remote plugged in when not in use—it can lead to corrosion or accidental activation.

9. Use a Winch Cover

• Protects from UV rays, rain, and dust.

Increases the life of the finish and internal components.

10. Schedule a Full Service (Annually or Biannually)

• Disassemble, clean, and re-grease internal components.

• Replace worn seals and check the brake system (especially if submerged in water often).

Or, take it to a 4x4 workshop that services winches.

Bonus: Trail Essentials

Carry the following:

• Winch damper

• Gloves

• Soft shackles or bow shackles

• Tree trunk protector

• Snatch block

• Backup control (if your remote fails)

FEATURED PASS

In the last decade the Bloukrans Pass on the R102 in the Garden Route has become something of a pawn between the governments of the Eastern and Western Cape. Myths, urban legends and rumours abound regarding the possible full reinstatement of the pass. We are not holding our breath on this one.

Earlier this year we had the opportunity to film the full pass in glorious 4K quality in real time. The video is quite long at just under 14 minutes, but for those who may never have the opportunity to get there, this video will give you a realistic cyber experience of what it's all about - From the pristine condition of the pass on the Western cape side to the neglected and abandoned look on the Eastern Cape side - from the beautiful indigenous forests to the fynbos covered ridges - it's all there.

From a technical standpoint this pass is one of the most complex filming projects we have undertaken. In bright sunlight, the shadows in the forests play havoc with with over and under exposure. The geometry of the route also means at some point you're going to be facing directly into the sun - as you will see in the video.

Whichever way one looks at it, the old Bloukrans is one of the most revered old school passes we have in South Africa, built under the supervision of our favourite padmaker, Thomas Bain.

Our new style of displaying telemetry overlays was not possible on this video due to the dense forest cover, which prevented a steady GPS signal from reaching the camera.

Trygve Roberts - Author


Thought for the day: "You cannot change what you refuse to confront"