What's Inside?
* Overberg road closures
* Kouga - Baviaans - Wet conditions expected
* Raising funds to promote tourism
* Cederberg splendour
* Swartberg Classic - Day 4
* Wild Coast V6 Tour - Day 11
* Pass of the Week
OVERBERG STORMS
As if to to flirt with the universe, Mother Nature walloped the Overberg region, still buckling under the damages from the Heritage Day storm, throwing another big load of water on the already flood ravaged region. Many roads are still damaged. At the time of publishing the following roads are still closed:
N2 at Botrivier (Bridge washed away)
The Buffelsjagrivier Causeway at the old Sugar Bridge
Chapman's Peak Drive
Drew Bridge
Hemel en Aarde Road (Harmanus)
Karwyderskraal Road (Between Hermanus and Bot River)
Hermanus to Tesselaars
Malgas Pont
Nagwag Bridge Between Bredasdorp and Arniston
DR1271 Swartvlei Road
DR1288 Van der Stel Pass
De Mond Reserve
R44 Clarence Drive
Franschhoek Pass
KOUGA BAVIAANS TOUR
As you receive this newsletter, we are driving from Steytlerville in the Karoo via the Antoniesberg Pass to Patensie on the first day of our annual Kouga Baviaans Tour. After several seriously dry years, the rains have finally arrived, leaving the Baviaanskloof flooded. The eastern bioreserve has been closed to traffic for over a week. Latest news is that the eastern bioreserve has been opened to 4x4 vehicles only.
Water levels at Smitskraal were measured at 800mm deep, so an exciting time awaits our group filled with adventure. We will be doing a full report as usual. Adventure awaits! We will also be stopping in at the overflowing Kouga Dam, which is quite a landmark event locally, having not seen water over the spillway since 2015.
KAAIMANS RIVER PASS SIGNAGE PROJECT
We have so far raised R12,700 of the R20,000 needed to replace the sign at the Dolphn Point view site on the Wilderness side of the pass. Remember we are happy to give your business good PR via our social media platforms. Donations can be made online via the link below:
CEDERBERG ROAD TRIP
The Cederberg is one of those spaces that captivates the soul - for life. One of my three daughters put in a request for a father/daughter breakaway to the Cederberg. What an honour it is that a grown up child actually chooses to spend quality time with a parent. I was really impressed with the idea and planned a three day sojourn, picking out all the best back roads and enjoyed the fully focused time with my daughter, Mandy.
It was one day after the storm that ravaged the Cape Peninsula and Overberg, so I knew some of the river crossings would be a problem. Our route took us over the old Du Toitskloof Pass where dozens of spectacular watertfalls thundered down the ravines on both sides of the road. It was still raining lightly, but we managed to get a few videos and photos.
We then took the road across to the Slanghoek intersection, knowing full well the low water bridge over the Breede would more than likely be under water. At that stage the skies had just started clearing, allowing for some decent light for photography. The Breede was pumping and no vehicle would have made it over the bridge. 
Breede River in flood at the Slanghoek Bridge / Photo: Trygve Roberts
Our route then followed the main road towards Ceres, where we stopped in at the delightfully charming Hillbilly Farm Stall where we enjoyed a very tasty meal. Kudu Rolls doused in braised onions. Heavenly!
The journey from the pub to the toilet requires a little describing (see photo below). They have experienced hectic flood levels since June, leaving the walk to the toilet somewhat waterlogged. In an effort to keep guest's feet dry, pallets have been laid down. Unsuspectingly I asked where the loo was and was shown the long walk to freedom down the walkway of pallets completely surrounded by water. Things were going well, until one of the pallets near the middle started wobbling under my feet. It was the moment when I realsied the pallet was actually floating.
A sobriety test at the Hillbilly Farm Stall / Photo: MPSA
There are those lightning fast thoughts that go through one's mind.
"I'm going to fall"
"Don't let my phone get wet"
"I didn't bring enough spare clothes"
But most of all there was that desperate lunge to regain my balance whilst simultaneously trying to look nonchalant. By the time I got to the loo, the urge had long gone. The return journey was slower and more measured, quite determined not to have a second moment of Hillbilly baptism.
The waterfall at the top of Michells Pass was a raging torrent. In fact there was so much water pouring over that lip that the waterfall had become one with the river - almost unrecognizable. We routed through a very wet Ceres and took the road past Prince Alfred's Hamlet and up the Gydo Pass. A light drizzle had settled in again, making photography a no-no.
On the upper plateau, aptly named the Koue Bokkeveld, orchards were inundated with water and every farm dam was brim full. We stopped in at Op die Berg - a small village catering mainly to the farming community. I had packed in a rush and forgot to pack my favourite tipple. I didn't hold out much hope of finding a liquor store there, but after a short drive we found it, tucked in behind the Spar. Much to my surprise their stock of excellent whisky's was an eye opener (or rather a wallet opener) but we settled for one of the main stream brands.
Soon the first gravel pass popped into view - the beautiful Blinkberg Pass on the P1482. One of the nicest gravel roads in South Africa, much loved by adventure travellers in all their disciplines.
The Blinkberg Pass looking idyllic in springtime / Photo: Trygve Roberts
The Blinkberg Pass (translated as 'Glittering or Shining Mountain') is a fairly long pass, found on the much revered gravel road through the southern Cederberg. The Grootrivierhoogte Pass and Blinkberg Pass run concurrently for a distance of almost 20 km through magnificent and rugged scenery.
The pass has an unusual vertical profile in that it has two false summits located approximately at the 1/3 and 2/3 points. Each of these is marked by a short tarred section to cope with the very steep gradients which reach 1:5. The drive jogged my memeory as I related a proper Cederberg story to Mandy.
Some years ago friends had agreed to spend a weekend with us at Mount Cedar and managed to cook their V8 engine in a Land Rover Discovery at the start of this pass. By the time we realised there was a problem, it was fully dark as I drove south in search of them. I attached the powerless Discovery with a thick webbing tow strap and started the tow back to Mount Cedar. The driver was to all intents and purposes blind from the dust behind the Cruiser and with no power brakes or steering, He had his hands full for the duration of the tow. We made it back to our cottages in one piece, with the Land Rover owner, cursing the product and swearing that he would never buy another Land Rover in his life.
He mellowed a bit after a few glasses of wine and started calming down. The next morning I was up early and saw him standing next to the Land Rover, mug of coffee in hand. I strolled over and greeted him. We chatted briefly, then he said in his heavy Belgian accent:
" You know it really is a beautiful vehicle. I think I'm going to keep it!"
The moral of the story is that drinking red wine is not always good for you!
I can still recall towing that 3 ton hulk up those steep tarred sections in 1st gear and completely running out of power (Land Cruiser 4.5 EFi), having to switch down to low range to make it over the crest.
I had my daughter in stitches retelling that story and before we knew it, we had arrived at Mount Cedar. The bridge over the Grootrivier was partially under water. Our cottage was on the far side, so I went directly to the bridge to see how deep it was and as I suspected, it would be no problem for the Land Cruiser.
When we checked in, we were delighted to learn that we had been given an upgrade to one of the bigger chalets with two separate en-suite bathrooms. The Cederberg had embraced us.
Next Instalment: Mount Cedar to Mount Cedar via Mathiesrivier, Eselbank, Wupperthal, Clanwilliam, Sanddrift and Kromrivier.
WILD COAST TOUR V6 (Day 11)
Reaching the end of any of the longer tours is always a little emotional, as all the friendships forged, have to be parted until who knows when. We had a late start at Kob Inn, enjoying a last breakfast as the Indian Ocean played its subtle tunes on the rocks outside.
By 0900 we were on our way for our final day - destination Haga Haga. We stopped briefly at Willowmore to top up some of the vehicles with lower fuel ranges and were soon on our way towards Cats Pass. This lovely pass offers lots of lovely scenery and some of the roads had taken quite a caning in the recent floods, but nothing we couldn't all master.
We stopped at the triple bridges over the Qora River and enjoyed the peace and quiet with not another vehicle to be seen. The Kobonqaba Pass with its narrow bridge that towers some 7m over the river bed is a prompt to relate the story of how the guard rails are all bent 90 degrees downstream. That flood some 20 years ago did that damage and during 2023 a bakkie driven by a local also washed off the bridge with no survivors. This is not a river to be trifled with.
We passed through bustling Centane with its rows of dusty taxis and joined the new tarred road to Kei Mouth. the weather was glorious as our convoy dropped down to the ferry at the river. This is always an enjoyable part of the Wild Coast Tour which is the point where the Wild Coast officially ends in the south.
Most vehicles refuelled in the village and inflated tyres, before setting off to our final night's destination at the Haga Haga Hotel nestled in a small village right on the rocks and flanked by a large beach. It was a fitting place to celebrate the end of another fantastic Wild Coast Tour.
Our Man of the Tour went to Dirk du Toit who endeared himself to every guest with his helpfulness, compassion and crazy sense of humour. He added significantly to the positive energy of the group.
Our next Wild Coast Tour begins on October 30th 2023 and is fully booked.
SWARTBERG CLASSIC TOUR - DAY 5
The distance on this day is a mere 110 km but there's a lot of concentration expended over a full 8 hours. We allowed our guests a later start (0900) which is always a popular announcement with the ladies. It would turn into a quite a day.
Our route was up the northern side of the Swartberg pass from Prince Albert, then westwards along the Gamkaskloof Road with a lunch stop in Die Hel and back to the Swartberg Pass, followed by the southern descent. Sounds easy, but it wasn't.
Recent floods had ravaged the road to Die Hel, so the going was by necessity very slow requiring us to be in low range for long stretches as we negotiated sections where the gravel had been eroded down to raw bedrock. At other places deep donghas and gullies presented some challenging driving.
Elands Pass was the highlight of the day and this "little" pass always impresses even the most jaded gravel road traveller. The fine weather held as we made our way down the valley and our lunch time destination, Fonteinplaas, where Marinette had prepared a fabulous light lunch for us taken in the garden with a crazy dog called Koejawel and chickens which rule the roost.
The valley and its last few remaining residents have taken a terrible hammering which started with COVID, obliterating their main source of income. This was followed by a huge fire that destroyed many of their cottages and campsites. If that wasn't enough, floods have arrived with force causing more destruction.
Highlight of the day was the descent of the Elands Pass / Photo: Trygve Roberts
Rooi Piet gave us an informative talk about the history of the kloof and what the future holds in store for them. Astonishingly, they remain open minded, positive and ready for more hard work.
As we were climbing up the lower reaches of Elands Pass, one of our guests reported a side wall cut. Fortunately they were still in the valley on fairly level ground. That delayed us by about half an hour and with the ETA dropping, we got going again. There would be a second problem.
One of the Toyota Hilux bakkies refused to go out of low range. The actuator was faulty. That meant the Hilux could only travel at a maximum of 35 kph. By the time we reached the Swartberg Pass, it was almost dark but no-one was complaining as the convoy descended the big pass to our overnight venue - the Swartberg Country Manor, where warm showers and a change of clothing heralded the beginning of another fun filled evening. We would worry about the Hilux in the morning.
Next Edition: Day 6 - Swartberg Country Manor to Rooiberg Lodge via Lawson's Pass.
GARDEN ROUTE TOUR - DAY 4
Probably the easiest day of this tour is the fourth day as we include a visit to Map of Africa view point above Wilderness, a stop in at the Big Tree in Woodville, which is followed by driving the remaining 5 passes of the 7 Passes Road. Touw River, Hoogekraal, Karatara, Homtini and Phantom. We included a detour along the lovely Ruigtevlei Pass. As part of this easy day, we take our group for a lunch to East Head Cafe with its amazing setting right at sea level at The Heads.
Knysna Heads looking perfect / Photo: MPSA
On arrival there we found the restaurant closed with a notice on the door announcing that the venue was closed due to the taxi strike. We quickly contacted 34 South at the Knysna Waterfront as a Plan B. The food was good and the views not half bad!
We tried a new venue for this tour - Portland Manor - as our usual venue (Belvidere Country Estate) was unable to accommodate our group size. What a delightful surprise Portland Manor turned out to be, but it deserves a chapter of its own, so we will tell you all about in the next edition of this newsletter.
SEVEN SISTERS TOUR - PART 2
We arrived at the locked gate at the foot of the Seven Sisters Pass and after going through a complicated unlocking process, drove for a bout 4 km to a farm shed, where Kuba and Dion (from MCSA and Cape Nature respectively) had prepared a delicious lunch of fillet steak on the Weber, with fresh rolls and salads. A strong north wester and low scudding cloud made things too cold to stand outside, so we enjoyed the food and a wonderful chat by Dion regarding fires, invasive species, water and floods.
After lunch it was time to tackle the drive to the summit. Rain was on the way. On arrival at the summit the mountain top was well above the cloud base, robbing us of the enjoyment of the wonderful views over Wellington, Paarl and Riebeeck Kasteel. After descending the pass, we rejoined the R101 and took the old Du Toitskloof Pass through to Slanghoek, where we crossed the Breede River and turned left to drive the Bains Kloof Pass from north to south.
Back at val du Charron, guests fully immersed themselves into our "Something Green" theme to celebrate spring and the Springboks. It was a lovely, social evening and needless to say the farm produce was taken seriously!
Next Edition: Gawie se Water
PASS OF THE WEEK
The Blinkberg Pass (translated as 'Glittering or Shining Mountain') is a fairly long pass, found on the much revered gravel road (the P1482) through the southern Cederberg. The Grootrivierhoogte Pass and Blinkberg Pass run concurrently for a distance of almost 20km through magnificent and rugged scenery.
The pass has an unusual vertical profile in that it has two false summits located approximately at the 1/3 and 2/3 points. Each of these is marked by a short tarred section to cope with the very steep gradients. At 11,8 km this a long pass and is peppered with corners, but most of these are fairly easy.
* * B L I N K B E R G P A S S * *
Trygve Roberts / Editor
“Never give advice unless you have walked the walk, because anybody can talk the talk.”
