What’s Inside
- Wild Coast (Day 10)
- Swartberg (Day 4)
- Garden Route (Day 2)
- Pass of the Week
- Grabouw Training Day
GRABOUW 4X4 NOVICE TRAINING DAY
This was undoubtedly our most interesting training day to date. What made it different was the weather. Two weeks ahead of the date, the forecast was looking fine, but as the days slid past, the forecast started changing, getting progressively worse. Two days before the date, the forecast changed to rainy and windy with an 80% chance of rain. So the question was whether to postpone or cancel the event. To add to the drama the SA Weather Bureau issued a Level 9 Severe Storm warning for the very area of the training course, but the time that the storm would hit the Overberg was scheduled for 1600. A bit of rain only adds to the skill set required in offroad conditions, so we decided to go ahead with the training day.
It rained non-stop from before we arrived until we left at about 15.30 that afternoon, but not so hard as to make the course dangerous. Our group of 13 trainees were first given a classroom style lecture in the dry comfort of the Orchard farm Stall who gracefully gave us the space to operate. This was followed by radio checks and we were on our way to the tracks to put the theories to the test.
We first took the group over an easier section just to get their confidence levels up and to experience the feel of their vehicles in low range as well as how the diff locks worked in the field. We stopped for a brief lunch break at the dam/waterfall, then tackled the more technical section on the southern side. We decided to do the route in an anti-clockwise direction which meant most of the difficult obstacles would be encountered in the descending mode.
We only had a couple of vehicles getting stuck, but with some guidance over the radios, everyone was able to self-recover. There were no punctures or mechanical issues.
As we were descending down the last part of the mountain, the skies lit up with a bright flash of lightning and a loud peal of thunder. We were going to make it back safely just in time. We returned to the Orchard Farm Stall for the check-out process and handing out of competency certificates.
A big shout out to father and son team of Philip and Tyler Wantling for their support roles in fitting radios and creating some cool videos and images of the action. This was a very successful training day where the weather conditions added another element to the quality of the experience. Hopefully we will have 13 new adventurers taking to the mountains!
WILD COAST TOUR V6– DAY 10
After the recovery of the taxi and the bull, our route continued towards Collywobbles. There are two good viewing sites to see the vultures, with the better one (based on previous visits) being the higher one.
On our way to Collywobbles, we came across a local man lying face down in the road. We had to, by necessity, pass close by him. I stopped, rolled down my window, and asked him if he needed help. He just lay there motionless. Meanwhile another man came bounding down the hillside and motioned to us that the prone man was OK. The only conclusion we came to that the man was more than likely mentally incapacitated.
Satellite image of the complexities of Collywobbles
When we descended the steep paved pass to Collywobbles, it became clear that there was construction taking place on the Collywobbles upper road. As we got closer a traffic official advised us that we could not drive up the upper view site as the road was being rebuilt. This short steep section of about 1 km must be one of the steepest roads in South Africa and is only drivable if it is concreted. Construction vehicles were visible all along the climb, so that road should be good to go by November, when we do our next Wild Coast Tour.
The roaad leading up to the upper viewsite is very steep and was under reconstruction at the time of our visit / Photo: Trygve Roberts
The road to the lower view-site had just been upgraded with our convoy possibly being the first vehicles to drive it. Many of the tall bushes and trees had been removed, which allowed open views down into the Mbashe River valley.
Lady Luck was with us. As we arrived at the lower view site, the skies were filled with soaring vultures. This is a truly enjoyable experience watching these big birds effortlessly using the lift to gain altitude. The vulture colony appears to be thriving with reports of over 200 breeding pairs.
It was time to (very carefully) turn the convoy around on the narrow and precipitous road and head back to the “main” road, where we turned right, heading down to the Mbashe River on a badly rutted road. It was slow going, but eventually we reached the Mbashe Dam. The dam has become quite silted up and only serves to generate hydro-electric power for the immediate region.
The drive over the narrow “bridge” which doubles as the dam wall, is always a highlight for guests. Soon we were climbing steeply up the eastern side of the gorge heading for Mveso, where Nelson Mandela’s now defunct museum stands forlorn and burnt down after a tribal squabble ended in a stalemate. It has apparently been moved to Port Elizabeth.
One of the positive spin-offs of this wasted effort is a really nice road and a new bridge (aptly named The Nelson Mandela Bridge) which continues from Mveso to the N2. As nice as what the new road is, there are already signs of lack of maintenance.
The allure of the lovely smooth tar surface on the N2 to Idutywa soon gave way to the dismay of rushing traffic and impatient drivers, as we did the chicken run through the town and headed back to Willowvale where we spotted Lucas the taxi driver with his trailer now devoid of the large bull. He had clearly delivered!
Our penultimate evening was spent back at Kob Inn where we enjoyed another lovely dinner amidst loads of camaraderie, with the waves crashing on the rocks next to the dining area. And of course the dolphins were there as usual, surfing the shore break.
Next episode: Kob Inn to Haga Haga.
KAAIMANS RIVER PASS SIGNAGE PROJECT
We have so far raised R12,500 or the R20,000 needed to replace the sign at the Dolphn Point view site on the Wilderness side of the pass. Remember we are happy to give your business good PR via our social media platforms. Donations can be made online via the link below:
SWARTBERG CLASSIC TOUR (DAY 4)
Bosch Luys Kloof to Prince Albert
After all the excitement of the previous day with multiple recoveries, we got going by 08.30 after another excellent breakfast served up by Henry and his team in the kitchen at Bosch Luys Kloof. Our route took us back up the Bosluiskloof Pass in perfect light and some good photo opportunities.
Bosluiskloof Pass / Photo: MPSA
We regrouped at the intersection with the R323 at the northern end of Seweweekspoort and enjoyed a slow and fabulous run through the majestic poort. One can never tire of this work of art by Mother Nature. The road was in good condition and we regrouped again at the intersection with the R62.
An easy traverse of the Huisrivier Pass got us to Calitzdorp where we turned left taking the gravel road through to Kruisrivierpoort. This is really one of the finest drives in the Klein Karoo, packed with interesting scenery, verdant farms, rivers and art galleries, as well as a few gorgeous guest houses.
The road is often single width and we did meet a few vehicles coming from the opposite direction, but with a little courtesy we all managed to get by without incident. Our intended 15 minute stop at Kruisrivier Gallery stretched into a 40 minute mega stop, as our guests favoured the good coffee over being punctual.
The Swartberg Private Game Reserve offered some good game viewing which included some sable antelope and Cape buffalo. Soon the smooth comforts of the tar beckoned as we joined the R328 and headed in the direction of the Cango Caves and Schoemanspoort.
The drive from Schoemanspoort to De Rust follows a delightful gravel road and includes various points of interest like the Koos Raubenheimer Dam, the Rust en Vrede Waterfall, De Rustica Olive Estates and more.
After De Rust town, our route took us north through Meiringspoort. Two stop-go's along the poort held us up briefly, but soon we had the whole convoy safely in the parking area at the waterfall. The grounds and facilties were immaculately clean (as they always are). Most guests took the 15 minute to the waterfall which had a good flow of water.
Meiringspoort is always a winner / Photo: MPSA
Our route departed Meiringspoort near the northern end, taking in three lovely gravel passes: Bloupuntrivierpoort, Kleinvlei Pass and Aapsrivierpoort. We joined the tarred R407 at Klaarstroom and drove towards Prince Albert.
A most unusual sight awaited us along the R407. We came across a Mahindra LDV towing a VW Amarok, which was towing a Trailer with a Land Rover Defender on it. They were chugging along nicely at about 50 kph. Well done to the Mahindra!
We arrived at Prince Albert in time for a relaxed check in at the Swartberg Hotel and a most enjoyable happy hour in the delightful old pub. Dinner was a gala affair where the delicious spread of food satisfied the biggest appetites and there can be no doubt the MPSA group were the noisiest in the dining room - full of joie de vie.
At time of writing Meiringspoort has been closed due to the flooing on the 25th/26th September, but has just been reopened to traffic.
Next Episode: The Swartberg Pass
GARDEN ROUTE TOUR – DAY 3
This would be the most technical day of the tour with a traverse of both the Montagu Pass and a return leg via the Old Oxwagon Route. The Montagu Pass has taken a bit of a beating earlier this year with a fair bit of water damage, buit it's still easily doable in any high clearance vehicle. We even saw a Hyundai i10 going up the pass.
The real challenge started at the Louvain Farm, just off the R62, where we signed in and got our permits. The 4x4 route over the mountain encompasses a number of routes including sections of the original Duiwelskop Pass, some forestry department tracks and are collectively known as the Old Oxwagon Route.
Whilst this route is rated Grade 2 to 3 and is usually not very difficult. It is peppered with a lot of sharp rocks, so getting a puncture or a sidewall cut is a very real possibility. We got everyone to gear down to low range and proceeded up the climb to the summit without any hitches. The views and scenery were magnificent with the green clad slopes and ridges of the Outeniquas offering endless photo opportunities.
Summit views from the Old Oxwagon Route / Photo: Trygve Roberts
What really enhanced this outing was the fabulous weather. It is often cold and windy at the summit, but on tour day everything was blessedly perfect. We took a long lunch break at the summit and savoured the privilege of being able to be there in such fine weather.
It was time to tackle the descent and this was when the June flood damage became clearly evident as the track had detoriated markedly, leaving dongas, gullies and washaways to negotiate. It was a very slow drive, mostly in 1st gear low range, but we all made it down to the relative comfort of the main forestry road, which is when Jerome O Regan driving a Land Rover Discovery, realised he had a puncture in the LF wheel.
The every helpful Theo Hammond was there to do assist with the wheel change, whilst the rest of us pretended to get our hands dirty and offer sage advice. Jerome learned his lessons well on an earlier Wild Coast Tour and now travels with two spares, so there was no panic with one good spare still in hand.
We arrived back in Wilderness with time to spare before gathering at Salinas right on Wilderness Beach, for our evening meal. One of our guests, Claude Robert, in a Jeep Rubicon left his lights on and was faced with a flat battery after dinner. Fortunately help was at hand and a jump start sorted that out.
Next Episode: The 7 Passes and Portland Manor.
CAPE OF STORMS
For the first time in the 43 years I have lived in Cape Town, the SA Weather Bureau issued a Level 9 Severe Weather Warning. It arrived on time at about 16.30 on Heritage Day, 24th September. The brunt of the storm would be unleashed over the Overberg area. Franschhoek, Grabouw, Elgin, Villiersdorp, Botrivier, Hermanus and Stanford received a huge amount of rain courtesy of what is known locally as a Black South Easter (ie. a cut off low).
Just a week earlier most of the coastal towns right around SA's coast got hammered by a storm surge coupled with exceptionally high spring tides, which caused massive damage and even death. It's been a very long, wet winter in the Western Cape.
Bridge damage on the N2 at Botrivier / Photo: SA Trucker
As this newsletter is being written there are at least 8 major roads in that area that are still closed. The bridge over the Botrivier on the N2 has been washed away. The province is facing massive expenditure in trying to manage all these crises which will run into many billions of Rands.
SEVEN SISTERS TOUR (DAY 1)
The wet winter of 2023 was set to make its mark on this tour as our group met at the Val du Charron wine estate outside Wellington for radio fitments and the customary drivers briefing which was held indoors as it was raining hard. For this tour, we always have our contact from Cape Nature, Kuba Miszewski, taking up position as sweep. The tour would not be possible without his involvement to allow us access to places the public cannot normally get to.
We managed to leave more or less on time inbetween a muddy and wet group of mountain bikers who were partaking in a race in the area. We routed through Wellington towards Paarl, where we traversed the Jan Philips Mountain Road where the clouds and rain parted occasionally to allow glimpses of the Boland town and its rich farming history and a fine view of the KWV property.
The first highlight of the day was a drive through the Huguenot service tunnel. First we had to meet the TOLCON safety team and don reflective vests and listen to an induction talk. A TOLCON vehicle led the way to the entrance of the tunnel, where we disembarked for a tour of the backup operations control room, where the inner workings of the computer systems were explained. This was followed by a visit to one of the four giant extractor fans, which help keep the pollution inside the tunnel at a safe level. Guests were fascinated and asked many questions, keeping our guide, Petra, very busy.
Midway through the tunnel, the group was taken to one of emergency doors where the heat and noise of the main tunnel was felt in stark contrast to the icy and quiet air in the service tunnel. Inside the service tunnel water was oozing out of the rock walls and running on both sides in makeshift culverts. TOLCON really made this visit enjoyable and our gratitude for this privilege is boundless. It is however, going to be a short lived privilege, as construction work is due to begin shortly, bringing the service tunnel up to standard. This will include a new bridge on the Worcester side to cope with the double lane traffic flow in either direction.
The Seven Sisters Tour will remain on our system, but will be modified and extended by a day to make it even better with new attractions being added.
Next Episode: A barn lunch and a drive to Suzie Tower in a bitterly cold gale.
PASS OF THE WEEK
OLD OXWAGON ROUTE / VOORTREKKER PASS
This historical oxwagon route dates back to 1776 when it was used by pioneers as a trade route between the coast and the Langkloof valley. prior to the current name, the route was known as the Duiwelskop Pass which was first designed by Thomas Bain circa 1865.
Enjoy magnificent views of the Indian ocean, the lakes around Wilderness and Sedgefield and the verdant Langkloof valley. The 21km route starts on Louvain guest farm and ends at the entrance of the Bergplaas Forestry station on the Seven Passes road between George and Knysna. It takes approximately two and a half hours to complete, and is enjoyable and scenic without being unduly demanding.
Trygve Roberts / Editor
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