This long and sometimes extreme gravel pass is located on a secondary road (the R335) in the Eastern Cape approximately 35 km north of Addo and 75 km south of Somerset East. At 27.9 km it is one of the longer passes in South Africa and traverses all four tiers of the dominant Zuurberg Mountain range.
It was originally constructed by Henry Fancourt White in 1849, but White resigned during the construction phase to take up a post in parliament, leaving the project in the capable hands of the assistant roads engineer, Mr. Matthew Woodifield, whose name appears carved into a rock slab near the southern end of the pass, close to the Zuurberg Mountain Village.
The pass contains within its length 158 bends, corners and curves. As progress is made southwards, the road surface deteriorates to the point where low range and high clearance is required. Allow two hours (excluding stops) to complete the pass and be patient and careful as this is true puncture country. Changing a spare wheel on a steep incline is a risky affair, so it's better to drive slower and choose your driving lines with care.
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Note: Google Earth software reads the actual topography and ignores roads, cuttings, tunnels, bridges and excavations. The Google Earth vertical-profile animation generates a number of parallax errors, so the profile is only a general guide of what to expect in terms of gradients, distance and elevation. The graph may present some impossible and improbably sharp spikes, which should be ignored.
Digging into the details:
To approach from the north (as we have filmed it), head south out of Somerset East on the R335 for 63 km to arrive at a fork at GPS S33.180329 E25.695900. Turn right and remain on the R335. After 700m you will pass an intersection to the left (the R400) which you should ignore and proceed straight on for 10.5 km where you will reach a 4 way intersection at GPS S33.241260 E25.774087. Turn right and head south for 2 km where you will reach the northern starting point of the Suurberg/Zuurberg Pass.
Getting there:
For those wanting to approach from the south, drive north-east along the N2 from Port Elizabeth for 16 km and take the off-ramp onto the R335 at GPS S33.823648 E25.646633. Turn left at the end of the off-ramp and head north for 50 km. Once past Addo Village, keep a lookout for a sign marked Zuurberg Mountain Village. The turnoff is about 3 km before you reach the main gate of Addo National Park. It is important not to miss this turn-off. The R335 is tar all the way from PE up till this point (and beyond). Note that the R335 has a shared route number along this section - the R342.
Turn left onto the smaller gravel road at GPS S33.455558 E25.721121. The gravel road retains the R335 route number and the tar road (R342) continues into the north-east towards Paterson and the main entrance to the Addo Elephant Park. Once on the gravel road, head north for 7 km to reach the southern start of the Doringnek Pass. Proceed up the Doringnek Pass to arrive at the summit at the Zuurberg Mountain Village, which is also the southern starting point of the Suurberg Pass. The pass starts/ends opposite the Zuurberg Mountain Inn.
Digging into the details:
The pass starts adjacent to Ann's Villa, a stately double story house tucked in under a ridge with a massive view out over the Karoo plains. Located at the northern foot of the Zuurberg Pass it began as a vital mid-19th-century coaching inn established by John Webster for his wife, Ann Elizabeth Whall, serving travellers on the arduous route north, booming with diamond discoveries, and evolving into a historic landmark with its original shop, blacksmith museum, and rustic charm, preserving a tangible piece of colonial South African history. The home was built in 1864.
Today the villa is looking a little tired and needs some TLC to get it looking a smidgen closer to its former glory. The property was sold a few years ago as a private residence. Public access is no longer possible.
Once past the villa, the road passes under the shadows of some trees as it climbs steadily at a gradient of 1:11 towards the first major bend, which occurs at the 1 km mark. At the apex of this bend there is a perfect view of the farm Bassonskloof nestling next to a small stream directly below.
The road swings through an easy 180 degree hairpin bend and continues climbing at gradients between 1:9 and 1:11. A few farm buildings appear on the right, which appear to be derelict.
The ascending continues to the 3.8 km mark where the next big bend appears. This one curls through 170 degrees, changing the direction into the west.
The first of the twin summits is reached at the 4.4 km mark at an altitude of 898m ASL. A short descent of 1.2 km commences, which leads to the next summit of 896m at the 8.5 km point.
The Zuurberg Mountains comprise four high chains running parallel, but separated by deep and rugged kloofs. As you ascend between the kloofs to the mountain summit, cycads Encephalartos altensteinii (darker green leaves) and the Encephalartos Lehmannii (light grayish leaves), the Aloe pluridens gracefully contrast themselves out against the harsh background of the typical East Cape shrubs, and red rocks of the conglomeritic Enon Formation.
The original Dutch name Zuurberg (Sour Mountain) has been changed to the more locally acceptable 'Suurberg' through the generations - it is so named after the sour grasses which grow here so plentifully. The average gradient of 1:74 is diluted by a long section along the top of the mountain which is fairly flat. There are, however some steep sections on the southern ascent which measure in at 1:10. We recommend that this pass be driven in a high clearance vehicle or even better in a 4x4. Normal cars will more than likely get damaged on this road.
The R335 connects the towns of Kirkwood and the Addo area (with its world famous elephant reserve) with the Karoo town of Somerset East some 85 km further north. The mountains of the Zuurberg provide magnificent scenery as the road traverses the mountains on the drier northern Karoo side to the lush, green plains of the Addo area.
Deflated tyres are less likely to puncture, but more importantly the contact area is bigger which improves traction and as a bonus the ride will be less bumpy. / Photo: CarAdviceIf you have not already done so, it is strongly recommended to deflate tyres to at least 1.4 bar. This will improve traction and provide a softer ride - at the same time reducing the risk of punctures. It is not advisable to drive this pass in a normal car as conditions keep deteriorating the further south you drive. There are places where low range will be used, so a high clearance 4x4 is the right vehicle for this pass.
The next section from the 8.5 km point to the 13.6 km mark is easily the most difficult section of the pass. Besides the persistently steep gradients, there are multiple sharp bends (many of which are blind corners) as the road follows the noses and gullies of the mountain down to the more lush part of the route.
Along this section you will see some fine examples of dry packed stone walling (for which Thomas Bain is so well known for), but this technique was used by earlier engineers, like White and Woodifield and even Thomas Ban's father, Andrew Geddes Bain, long before Thomas Bain came into the picture.
The pass was built between 1847 and 1857 by Henry Fancourt White (who also built the famous Montagu Pass near George) using about 250 convicts. At the time it was the only road to the interior from Port Elizabeth. Originally, it formed part of the main road between Port Elizabeth and Johannesburg, and continued to do yeoman service for almost 100 years.
Shortly after Sir George Napier's appointment as Governor of the Cape in 1838, he visited the Eastern Province. He was appalled at the state of the roads and subsequently devoted much of his energies towards improving the communications between Cape Town and the eastern parts of the Province.
When the Montagu Pass had been completed in December, 1847, the entire gang of 250 convicts was transferred from there to the Zuurberg, in order to commence a road that would provide a direct route from Port Elizabeth to the districts of Graaff-Reinet, Somerset East, Cradock and Colesberg across what was described as "another impossible mountain range."
North of this intersection things get decidedly rough / Photo: Trygve Roberts The road party under Inspector Henry Fancourt White commenced work in January 1848 - starting in the south at Doringnek and after only 13 km of the road had been completed, the convict gang was withdrawn in 1850 and stationed around Port Elizabeth, because renewed trouble with the Xhosas had started and it was not considered safe to have the convicts working in a hazardous region. According to a report of the Central Road Board, building of the pass was resumed at the cessation of hostilities in 1853.
In a letter dated 27th January, 1857, the assistant civil engineer of the colony, Matthew Woodifield, reported to the board from his office in Port Elizabeth: "The main strength of the gang has been employed during the year in widening, forming, draining and metalling the road between the first Great Zuurberg ridge above Boontjies River, and the cut between Stroebel's and Wolwekop. Out of this entire length of about 15 miles, 13 miles may be said to be finished, and in first rate repair."
The trekkers had a habit of locking wagon wheels up on steep descents, which ruined the roads / Photo: Archives
Of the already completed section of the pass he writes: "Much damage has been caused to the road by careless driving, renaming with iron remschoen and locking wheels" .... "
By the present ordinances, it is impossible to put a stop to these practices; but by a slight modification of the road magistrate's ordinance, this grievance could be easily remedied."
Mr Woodifield further states: ". ... it is possible that the road from the bottom of the mountain on the north side, to the top of the main ridge, will be completed in eighteen months."
The entire Zuurberg Pass (which would include the Doringnek Pass), at 37 km long was opened to traffic in 1858, more than 10 years after Fancourt White and his convict gang moved onto the site.
This sign is barely legible, a reflection of the lack of maintenance afforded this route
The next few kilometres are the most technical on the entire pass and you will be dealing with lots of big round stones, sharp rocks, deep ruts, washaways, dongas and some steep inclines - and lots of very sharp bends. The road climbs steeply and ducks in and out of no less than 5 small ravines. The going is very slow here - often below 10 kph, and you will need to exercise patience if you don't want to damage a tyre.
At the bottom of the long descent, a few buildings appear on the left at the 12.4 km mark, followed by a prominent intersection. The road to the left leads past 12 commercial farms and connects with the N10. If you wish to remain on the Suurberg Pass, make sure that you take the right hand fork.
After a few hundred metres, the road passes a small farm - watch out for farm animals and geese here. The road switches direction into the east and climbs gently up towards a long ridge of the Zuurberg Mountains.
Once up on the spine of the ridge, you will get to enjoy good views both to the left and right.
In the northern sector, the road is rough, narrow, steep and has unguarded drop-offs / Photo: Trygve Roberts
The altitude along this long and scenic section varies between 630m and 720m. Here you will have a few moments to relax and enjoy the amazing views on either side as the gradients are gentle. Everything to the east and west of the pass forms part of the Addo Elephant National Park, but just north of the road, lies a valley, which forms a long east-west running string of 12 farms, which are commercially operated. Much of the next section heads into the east following the spine of the mountain ridge and maintaining a steady altitude. You will pass one of the highest points of the first half of the pass with an altitude of 734.8m just at one of the sharpest hairpin bends. A deep ravine heads away into the south with the macabre name of Moordenaarsboskloof. (Murderer's Bush Ravine)
This long section eventually passes through a small farmstead (Spring Vale). This is also where the Suurberg Forest Station is based on the western side of the road. The road then swings uphill into the north-east, where it soon approaches a T-Junction at the 14.3 km point. There is another farmstead (still the Spring Vale farm) on the far side of the road. Don't turn left here, which is a very long gravel road drive of 30 km, which eventually connects with the N10 near the foot of the Olifantskop Pass, but should you find the going too rough on the Suurberg Pass, a left turn here will allow an escape. Keep sharp right and follow the steeply ascending gravel road, which at this point, deteriorates another notch or two, forcing a slower speed of around 25 kph.
Suurberg Pass views looking south / Photo: Trygve Roberts
At the 18.3 km mark, there is a Y-junction with a farm road intersecting from the left. This is very close to the highest point on the pass. Ignore the left hand side road as it leads to 5 isolated farms further west along the plateau. These are from east to west Barkly Wheat, Klipkraal, Revue, Vygeboom and Round Hill. The road straightens out and for the next 5 km there are very few bends. The altitude remains between 840m and 880m as the heading remains steady into the east.
The final descent begins at the 23 km mark adjacent to the farm Viewlands, which is also under one of the highest peaks of the entire pass [910,1m]. The road drops down the mountainside via a wide 170 degree left hand bend. Altitude is lost quickly via set of double S-bends with good views to the right.
The fynbos on the peaks (where the climate is colder, and windier), and the sour grasses, with hardy succulents, interspersed with Proteas and Plegaroniums, and other wild flowers, like ostrich eyes, “Struthiola”, survive well.
At the 24.4 km mark, the road begins a big left hand initiated horseshoe bend as it follows the shape of the headland. With the altitude now at 608m ASL the road begins a long and gentle descent to the river hidden below in the valley in dense bush.
The road climbs into the SW and passes the entrance to the Lauriston farm. Soon a sharp right hand bend marks an exposed slab of grey rock, which is clearly visible on the high side of the road, with the stream now visible to the right lower down in the valley. This exposed section of rock has a pitch of around 60 degrees and lasts for about 700m. Look carefully a few metres above the road surface near the lower end of the road and you will see an inscription in the rock face: 'Woodifield's Krantz 1855'.
Keep a look out for this krantz close to the end of the pass, where you will see the carving in the rockface
Local legend has it that Matthew Woodifield (the engineer who completed the Suurberg Pass) fell down this cliff on his horse with both perishing and that his ghost appears from time to time in the mountain mists on cold winters nights. It's a story retold with relish around the fireside in the mountaintop pub, but this is a fanciful story as history records reveal that Woodifield was still very much alive in 1855 and there is no record of him dying on this road. The inscription was more likely to have been made in honour of his engineering efforts.
The Doringnek Pass and the Suurberg Pass are inexorably linked. The two passes run back to back for almost 40 km. What makes the Suurberg Pass unique that its northern and southern starting points are both marked by hotels. The pass ends at the same point where the Doringnek Pass starts, which is opposite the Zuurberg Mountain Village at an altitude of 598m ASL.
The History of Zuurberg Mountain Village.
The finding of gold (and later diamonds) to the North lead to considerable movement of both people and goods, and this demanded better access to the interior. The Inn began operating in 1861 when John Mathews applied for a licence to keep a hotel and tap on his farm.
The Pass was often perilous, with stories abounding of wagons falling over the edges, harnesses breaking and a general time of toil and tears. No doubt, at this time, all sorts of characters from far flung corners of the world passed through the now serene and peaceful Zuurberg hills. The evenings would have been filled with loud and raucous voices and laughter, telling stories around the fire…no doubt exaggerated by the abundance of ale…of how they made it to the top of the pass.
To manage to get a span of heavily laden oxen and their wagon and load to the top of the pass was a full day’s work. Once there, the offer of accommodation, a soft bed and something to eat and drink, was particularly precious (and somewhat rare). In those days, the entire Addo area abounded with game, lions, elephants, rhino and buffalo….if only those silent walls could recount their tales…
Continue on the R335 and descend the Doringnek Pass to reach the tar road to Addo.
Some text research courtesy of www.addotourism.co.za
CAUTIONARY: Note that the road surface is much worse than what you observe in the video, due to the use of a 3 axis camera stabiliser, which smooths the video out and makes it more enjoyable to watch. If you travel this road on your own and experience a mechanical failure, you could have a long wait as the pass carries very low traffic volumes. Be prepared for punctures and check your spare wheel, tools and preferably carry a puncture repair kit with you.
Fact File:
|
GPS START |
S33.351739 E25.743419 |
|
GPS SUMMIT |
S33.273361 E25.771044 |
|
GPS END |
S33.254090 E25.773141 |
|
AVE GRADIENT |
1:74 |
|
MAX GRADIENT |
1:8 |
|
ELEVATION START |
596m |
|
ELEVATION SUMMIT |
888m |
|
ELEVATION END |
656m |
|
HEIGHT GAIN/LOSS |
292m |
|
DISTANCE |
27,5 km |
|
DIRECTION - TRAVEL |
North |
|
TIME REQUIRED |
100 minutes |
|
SPEED LIMIT |
40 - 60 kph |
|
SURFACE |
Gravel (P0450/R335) |
|
DATE FILMED |
22.11.2019 |
|
TEMPERATURE |
25C |
|
NEAREST TOWN |
Addo (35 km) |
Route Map:
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Route files:
||Click to download: Suurberg Pass (Note - This is a .kmz file which can be opened in Google Earth and most GPS software systems)
