This short, mixed surface pass connects the village of Lambasi / Luphatana with the coast where the popular walk commences to Waterfall Bluff and Cathedral Rock on the Wild Coast. It is a dead-end road. There is an altitude variance of 144m which converts into a stiff average gradient of 1:11, but it is the very rough condition of the road that sets this one apart. The steepest part has a rudimentary concrete covering, which lasts for about 100m. When the pass is ascended (on your way back), a lovely waterfall consisting of about 8 cascades can be seen to the right of the concreted section. The waterfall occurs in the upper reaches of a tributary of the Mhlalane River, although most people refer to it as the Luphatana River.
The road and pass are not suited to non 4WD vehicles. We recommend a minimum of two 4x4 vehicles in case of a breakdown/recovery being required.
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[Video footage & cover photo: Trygve Roberts]
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Note: Google Earth software reads the actual topography and ignores roads, cuttings, tunnels, bridges and excavations. The Google Earth vertical-profile animation generates a number of parallax errors, so the profile is only a general guide of what to expect in terms of gradients, distance and elevation. The graph may present some impossible and improbably sharp spikes, which should be ignored.
Digging into the details:
Getting there: As this pass is on a road that is a dead end, we are only providing directions from north to south. From the R61 just south of Lusikisiki, turn east onto the Magwa Road (concreted) at GPS S31.377087 E29.576303 and drive for 6 km where the concrete gives way to gravel. Keep left and remain on the gravel road for a further 1.3 km where you must turn right at a fork at GPS S31.346508 E29.636801. Remain on this road for 14 km heading ENE till you arrive at another fork where you will see the Mxhume school on the left. One hundred metres after the school, turn right at this fork at GPS S31.336358 E29.764841. Head SW along a minor road for 3.3 km to arrive at the western start and summit of the pass.
Warning: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PASS UNLESS IN A 4X4 VEHICLE WITH LOW RANGE.
Digging into the details:
The road from Lambazi / Lupathana to the coast is officially listed as Ghanja Road. Ghanja is of course a slang term for cannabis (dagga), which is grown prolifically (and illegally) in the area. From a tourism perspective this is the road that leads all the way to the coast where the shorter option to walk to the famous Waterfall Bluff and Cathedral Rock is usually commenced. The coastal walk to the waterfall is about 4 km and is undulating, but not difficult for people of average fitness. To get to Cathedral Rock involves a further 3 km section which is steeper and includes some lovely rock pools.
Under no circumstances should this road be attempted unless in a 4WD vehicle with low range. Speaking to the local guides who earn a living guiding tourists to the landmarks, they say they don't want the road repaired or improved as it keeps bad elements out of the area, which is the reason why this road is in a poor state.
Along the lower section below the pass, the road has many sections which can trap unsuspecting drivers in deep mud embedded with hidden rocks. It is best not to drive this road on your own in case of a breakdown. It is not so much the gradient that is the problem, but the poor condition of the road which has deep ruts and wash-aways and a long section where the road has washed away right down to the bedrock.
The pass only has 7 bends and all of them are sharp, but it doesn't matter as your speed will be about 5 km per hour.
Waterfall Bluff:
Waterfall Bluff - a bucket list point of interest / Photo: MPSA
Reaching it as part of a hike is not that difficult, depending on how you plan things. There are numerous options. You can choose to stay at Mkambathi Nature Reserve (in which case the falls are relatively close), or nearby at Mbotyi, in which case the hike is bout 14 km up the coast (you will need a guide). Starting from and returning to Mbotyi is a 28 km round trip requiring reasonable fitmess. Hikers leave Mbotyi at 6 am and return at 5 pm. making it an 11 hour excusrion including rest stops.
Waterfall Bluff is one of only 19 waterfalls world-wide that fall directly into the sea. There are only two such waterfalls in Africa, apparently. It is no less than a spectacular sight, particularly as, in this case, an overhang provides ringside seats across from the waterfall. It's possible at low tide to walk into a cave behind the curtain of water (locally known as the Tea Room)
Cathedral Rock
Cathedral Rock / Photo: Pinterest
A few kilometres walk from the bluff (heading back to Mbotyi, if that is your route) is another geographical phenomenon, a free-standing, vertical rock with its own 'hole in the wall' known as Cathedral Rock (actually the area is full of secret spots, and if you venture on a guided hike, your guide is likely to point out the numerous pools, bluffs and river mouths).
If your guide is worth his salt, he will include the undisclosed Mfihlelo Falls, just a few kilometres away from Waterfall Bluff, another waterfall that falls straight into the ocean (and one that is not registered on the world list of waterfalls that fall into the sea). But don't let anyone else know. It's a secret...
Once you've completed your visit to the falls, you will need to drive the route in reverse which is more difficult, especially in wet weather. Be wary of hidden rocks in the mud which can easily damage a sump, gearbox or differential. If you're heading to Mbotyi as an overnight stop, allow 2 hours from the coast and back to Mbotyi (each way).
Fact File:
|
GPS START |
S31.348749 E29.792465 |
|
GPS SUMMIT |
S31.348749 E29.792465 |
|
GPS END |
S31.352561 E29.803621 |
|
AVE GRADIENT |
1:11 |
|
MAX GRADIENT |
1:6 |
|
ELEVATION START |
465m |
|
ELEVATION SUMMIT |
465m |
|
ELEVATION END |
321m |
|
HEIGHT GAIN/LOSS |
144m |
|
DISTANCE |
1.6 km |
|
DIRECTION - TRAVEL |
ESE |
|
TIME REQUIRED |
12 minutes |
|
SPEED LIMIT |
None |
|
SURFACE |
Gravel & Concrete (Bad / 4x4 Only) |
|
DATE FILMED |
10.05.2022 |
|
TEMPERATURE |
24C |
|
NEAREST TOWN |
Lusikisiki (25 km) |
Route Map:
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Route files:
||Click to download: Ghanja Pass (4x4 Only) - (Note - This is a .kmz file which can be opened in Google earth and most GPS software systems)
