THE MONTH OF LOVE
* Tours Updates
* The Dusty Dashboard
* Ben 10 - Day 3
* Wild Coast - Day 4
Listen to an AI-generated discusion of this newsletter:
TOURS UPDATES
We've just had a cancellation come in for the Lesotho Tour in April. Book on the link below
MOUNTAIN KINGDOM TOUR 2025
We were hoping to have the next three tours ready for bookings by the time this newsletter was due for publishing, but numerous other important stumbling blocks cropped up over the past few weeks, including a recce trip to the Cederberg for a proposed new tour in September.
The new (3 month) calendar will receive our immediate attention next week. Promise!
THE DUSTY DASHBOARD
Ed Note: Prices quoted in this article are relative to 2015. They would probably have at least doubled by now.
The next day we headed 50 km northwards to Moremi and the Maqwee camp. The ablutions were much better, but still far from being relative to the prices charged. And whilst on that panicky topic, my Pulas were running out faster than the fuel in my tank. At each reserve there are Reserve or Conservations fees, plus a fee per vehicle, plus a fee per person plus a camping fee. On average it costs around R1500 per day to camp for a couple including all the ancillary charges. Over the last two years, since the camp sites have been privatised, the cost of going to Botswana has more than doubled. If you’re going in a petrol Land Cruiser, allow R14, 000 for fuel (ex Cape Town) and a total budget of R30, 000 for a 9 day stint in the reserves – and there was nothing extravagant in that budget either.
Moremi South Gate offered probably the best game viewing of the entire trip, with the Black Pools loop looking like a National Geographic movie viewed at an IMAX Cinema – except much, much better. That Toto song kept on popping into my head.
The tracks were sandy and deflated tyres and 4WD was mandatory to make progress. Soon we found a 10-ton truck stuck in the sand ahead of us, in the process completely blocking the road. There were 76 school kids on the back, most of whom were standing on either side of the truck. Saplings and branches had been laid under the rear wheels, but they were stuck good and proper. The truck belonged to Botswana Parks and the outing was an educational one for local school kids. We stopped and went to see if we could help, only to discover it was not a 4WD truck. The driver sheepishly admitted he had underestimated how soft the sand was. I checked if he had deflated his tyres. Yes, he had.
The bush holds beauty and dangers. Be aware of your surroundings at all times. Photo: MPSA
The second problem was the truck was facing up a slope (not major) – maybe around 5 degrees, but a slope nonetheless. I’ve done a few tricky recoveries in my years, but never a 10-ton truck. We moved the other two vehicles off the track and I turned the Cruiser around and attached my (until then) unused snatch strap to both vehicles. We cleared all the kids out of harm’s way (hoping there were no lions or hyenas in the long grass) and gave the driver instructions and posted one of my mates as recovery co-ordinator, using hand signals.
It took 4 tugs in 2nd gear low range and we only moved the truck about one metre. I then tried locking both diffs up and Voila! Out came the truck and I towed it to the crest of the slope about 100m away, to the sounds of tumultuous cheering and joy from all the kids.
Awesome stuff and unfortunately everyone was so involved with the recovery that no-one video'd anything. Later that afternoon I went to the park office and with a dead-pan expression suggested that they could pay me the 5000 Pula Recovery Fee on a barter basis and have “no camping charges” for the rest of our trip. They just smiled and thereafter I became known as Morena Roberts – the saviour of Botswana’s children – a few short lived hours of fame.
One large kitty cat of dubious temperament / Photo: MPSA
Next Episode: Bridge over the River Khwai / Burgled by baboons.
BEN 10 ECO CHALLENGE (DEC 2024) Day 4
We were enjoying excellent weather patterns and even our spare day was a humdinger. We use this day to ascend the big peak near Mountain Shadows Hotel, called Dawid se Kop. A huge cloud bank of billowing white clouds started moving in from the coast, with the mountains holding the clouds back, in the process leaving the peak and the views to the north open. Our timing could not have been better.
Farm owner, Sarel Vorster, had driven up ahead of us, opening all the gates (what a thorough gentleman) and waited for us at the towers at the 2520 high peak. We spent over an hour up there, taking photos and videos and for the first time ever the wind was absent, allowing us to get the drone airborne. W e also used the good weather to film the pass and it is now the newest addition to the MPSA website.
Here is the link: Dawid se Kop
Here are the two videos we produced (with telemetry)
Part 1:
Part 2:
Our route took us back to the hotel via the Bottelnek Pass with the intention of going to the Castle Rocks vulture viewing site in the afternoon, but when we got there the clouds were very low and things looked a bit dodgy, so we returned to the hotel and asked the group to be on standby (on the Whats App Group) whilst Udo and I took a recce trip up the mountain to check conditions out. When we reached the viewing point, the clouds had just started opening - enough to warrant rousing the convoy into action, with instructions to meet us at the access gate. There was a palpable air of anticipation all round - and the guests would not be disappointed.
The weather gods were certainly on our side as within the space of 30 minutes the clouds cleared allowing a fantastic vulture viewing experience. We spent well over an hour up there, with some guests reluctantly packing up their cameras, before tackling the vague track back to the main road..
This was another fantastic day on tour, as guests imbibed their favourite tipple in the spacious pub at Mountain Shadows Hotel that night and a sound night's sleep in the type of quietness one can only find in the deep country.
Next Episode: A big day doing 3 challenge passes.
WILD COAST - Day 4
It was time to bid Mbotyi River Lodge farewell, where we were well looked after by Alex and his hardworking team. On the roster for the day was a visit to Fraser Falls, Magwa Falls, Mount Thesiger and Umngazi River Bumgalows.
As if by magic, another perfect fine weather day saw us crawling up the steep and twisty Mbotyi Pass, completely covered by shady indigenous forests. This would be our 6th traverse of the pass in half that number of days. We had barely popped out of the forest canopy, when the unmarked turn-off to Fraser Falls beckoned. The falls are a stone's throw away from the main road, but unless you know exactly where to turn off, you will unlikely find them.
The drive across a grassy hill is only about 500m, when the first view of the falls makes an appearance on the left. The water appears to be gushing out of a tunnel in the rock face, but this is an optical illusion, As you move further along the rim of the gorge, it becomes clear that the waterfall is a double cascade which has carved a neat slice through the sandstone.
Fraser Falls / Photo: MPSA
It's quite a distance from the view-site to the falls, but can be adequately captured with a decent zoom lens. The whole gorge is a wonder-world of thick forest, with near vertical sandsone cliffs, with the river splitting the idyliic scene into two halves. It's a good spot to linger a while.
Highlight of the day was around the next headland - Magwa Falls. Most of the guests braved the frisky currents to cross the river, where a short stony path gets one to the view point. It really does take one's breath away, as the spectacle of white water rushing down the cliffs to land in a cloud of spray 142m lower down in the gorge is like something from a fantasy movie.
The clock was ticking and some of the vehicles needed to fill up at Lusikisiki, before we started tackling the crazy 'hop-hop-spinnekop' speedbumps, minibus taxis and cattle along the winding descent to Port St Johns. A high level of concentration is required as some local drivers (taxis and courier vehicles and some larger trucks) take some wild risks, overtaking on double barrier lines and blind corners with zero regard for the rules. I guess that's another reason its called the Wild Coast!
We got everyone through the maze of shops and one ways in Port St Johns and ascended the Airport Road to Mount Thesiger. They still have a manned military Checkpoint Charlie in place, but the soldiers were friendly and helpful, as usual.
One of our traditions is to have paired drag races on the airstrip, which is an activity much enjoyed by the guests. Even the most conservative admitted to enjoying it immensely.
The weekend was booked at Umngazi River Bungalows, which is a real spoil and always enjoyed by our guests. A LOT of delicious food was consumed, interspersed with other distractions, like walking, fishing, swimming and spa treatments. My brother had flown out from Australia with his extended family to join us this tour. He kindly paid for a spa treatment for me. This is something I have never experienced in my life, so it was with some trepidation that I walked up a very long flight of stairs in the pouring rain to settle in for what was supposed to be an hour of relaxation.
I ticked the box marked "Medium Intensity" and oh boy, was I glad I never chose the stronger one. The Xhosa mama knew her stuff, but possibly not the extent of her own strength. It's been three months now and my back has still not quite recovered. My first and last massage! It felt like she had cracked a rib!
Compiled by Trygve Roberts
"There is a budding morrow in midnight" ~ Homer
