The three weeks that were!
* Swartberg Tour Day 2
* Quick recap
* Technical Corner
* Grabouw Novice Training Day
* History: Murder at Houdenbek
* Mountain Kingdom Tour - Day 7
* Featured Pass
Swartberg Tour Day 2
We assembled the convoy after breakfast at Rooiberg Lodge after more overnight rain and another day of gale force winds from the west. We would be driving into the teeth of that storm for at least half the day. An interesting observation is that we arrived at Bosch Luys Kloof Lodge two hours ahead of schedule. This was due to the fact that being outside the vehicles was unpleasant and very cold, so our comfort breaks were very brief!
We departed Rooiberg Lodge at 0900 with our convoy back up to full strength with our oldest guest Shane Hewitt (83) and his wife, Welma, having arrived the previous afternoon after electrical problems with their beloved Land Discovery 1. Our route first went east, up the narrow and steep Assegaaibosch Pass and from there up the Rooiberg Pass where we paused for photos at the Gebedstapel (Prayer Cairn). It was chilly and exposed at the summit point, but the views were crystal clear.
The Rooiberg Pass was in good condition as we made good progress down the northern side and on to Calitzdorp, from where we turned west and into that gale force wind along the R62. The two single ladies in their Jimnys were having a lot of fun trying to keep their steeds on the road. We drove the Huisrivier Pass and refuelled in Ladismith, deciding to exclude the Hoekoe Valley loop due to excesive mud.
From there our route followed the southern side of the Swartberg range for some distance as we graced the Karoo gravel roads traversing a string of small passes and poorts, which included the Outol Pass, Klein Swartberg Pass, Volstruisnek, Wasbank Pass and Perdefonteinkloof Pass, before connecting with the R323 at the Witnekke Pass, where we finally could get some benefit from the strong wind, as we headed east through the beautiful farming valley of the Rietvlei and Moondance farms.
The brief stretch of smooth tar gave way to gravel once more as we cruised up the Koueveld Pass, where two waterfalls were putting on a nice show for us. Cameras clicked and we promptly arrived at the intersection of the R323 and R407, having climbed over the 1000m altitude level. We took the left hand fork and drove through huge fields of onions that were soggy and wet from the recent heavy rains.
We had not had any rain on that day, but there was heavy rain in the forecast. Bosluiskloof Pass is always a favourite amongst our guests as we slowly dropped down towards the lodge at the bottom of the valley. Evidence of recent roadworks indicated that the management of Bosch Luys Kloof Lodge had been hard at work, ensuring the road was in a driveable condition.
Bosluiskloof Pass / Photo: MPSA
It was at the top of the pass that I realised we were two hours ahead of schedule! I sent an SMS to the lodge advising of our early arrival. We checked in and being only 3 pm, we had the rest of the afternoon to chill - and that was the operative word. They seldom experience strong wind at the lodge, so the chalets with fireplaces had guests huddled around the fireplaces trying to keep warm. The chalets are all thatched with no ceilings, so it takes a lot to heat them up. The main activity at the lodge that afternoon was guests requesting more firewood! The lodge runs entirely on solar, so there are no heaters in the rooms. The best recipe was to make a hot water bottle and climb under the duvet. Gas heaters are absent, due tothe fire risk in thatched buildings.
We gathered in the pub at 17.30. Once the red wine was flowing, the cold was soon forgotten as we sat down to enjoy a four course dinner with a roaring fire in the hearth mingled with much laughter and earnest conversation amongst the guests, who were getting into the swing of things.
The manager at Bosch Luys Kloof, advised that storm damage to the 4x4 routes had forced them to close the routes temporarily, so he arranged instead, a tour of the dam wall at the Gamkapoort Dam, which was overflowing. This would be undertaken the next day together with a game drive, but we will tell you more about that in the next newsletter.
Recap
It's been an ice cold and very wet winter with the rain and cold weather set to continue for another few weeks at least. Every dark cloud has a silver lining and those have come in the form of a spectacular wildflower display in progress up the West Coast and Namaqualand. Dams all over the Western Cape and are filled to capacity and tourism is in full bloom, but storm damage repairs to roads seems to be lagging.
This is especially a problem near George, where three passes have been closed and there is no positive information coming from the roads directorate in terms of a schedule of repairs, Roads affected are the Montagu Pass, Silver River Pass and the 4x4 route between Louvain farm and Bergplaas known as the Old Ox-Wagon Route (Duiwelskop Pass).
Montagu Pass showing severe water damage / Photo: Courtesy of George Herald
We are working on our 2025 tours calendar, which should be published by the end of September. There are a number of new concepts under the microscope, but all will be revealed in due course.
Technical Corner
As most people enter the exciting prospects of driving offroad in their first 4x4, there are a myriad of questions (and answers) to consider.
Here are our Top 20 snippets of advice:
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Know Your Vehicle: Understand the capabilities and limitations of your vehicle before heading off-road. Make sure you know the wading depth, ground clearance and position of the recovery points.
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Check Your Equipment: Ensure that your vehicle is properly equipped for off-road driving with appropriate tires, recovery gear, and any necessary modifications.
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Plan Your Route: Research and plan your route in advance, taking into account the terrain, weather conditions, and potential obstacles.
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Air Down Your Tires: Lower your tire pressure to increase traction and improve your vehicle's ability to navigate rough terrain.
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Use 4WD: Engage your vehicle's four-wheel drive system to improve traction on challenging surfaces. Whenever you reach a gravel road, immediately engage 4WD. It is safer and also prevents corrugations forming on the road.
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Drive Slowly: Maintain a slow and steady pace to reduce the risk of accidents and damage to your vehicle. The maxim is "As slow as possible - As fast as necessary"
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Avoid Sudden Movements: Make gradual steering, braking, and acceleration inputs to maintain control on uneven terrain.
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Stay Alert: Keep a lookout for obstacles, changes in terrain, and other vehicles to react quickly and avoid potential hazards.
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Use Low Gears: Shift to a low gear to maintain control and power when climbing or descending steep inclines. If your speed is below 20 kph, change down to low range.
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Approach Obstacles Carefully: Assess obstacles before attempting to drive over them, and choose the best line to minimize the risk of getting stuck. Remember, it's better to do it over, than to overdo it.
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Follow the Leader: When driving in a group, maintain a safe distance from the vehicle ahead to avoid collisions and allow for better visibility. Leave at least 5 car lengths gap between vehicles in case the vehicle ahead has to reverse back..
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Communicate: Use hand signals or radios to communicate with other drivers in your group and coordinate movements when navigating tricky terrain.
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Pack Essentials: Bring necessary supplies such as water, food, first aid kit, tools, and a spare tire in case of emergencies.
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Stay on Designated Trails: Respect the environment and stay on designated off-road trails to minimize the impact on wildlife and vegetation.
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Be Prepared for Emergencies: Have a plan in place for emergencies and know how to use your recovery gear in case you get stuck. Invest in a satellite phone for places where there is no mobile signal. It could save your life.
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Learn Recovery Techniques: Familiarize yourself with recovery techniques such as winching, using traction aids, and vehicle self-recovery methods. Attend a 4x4 driver's course.
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Respect Private Property: Obtain permission before driving on private land and respect the rules and regulations of the area you are exploring.
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Practice Leave No Trace: Pack all trash and leave the environment as you found it to preserve off-road areas for future generations.
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Stay Calm: Keep a cool head and remain calm in challenging situations to make rational decisions and avoid panic.
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Have Fun Safely: Enjoy the thrill of off-road driving while prioritizing safety and responsible practices to ensure a positive experience for yourself and others.
A group of 4x4's descending Bastervoetpad Pass / Photo: MPSA
Grabouw Novice Training Day
We have been running this training course during the wet season for a few years, to give novice drivers the opportunity to experience, mud, water, rocks, stones, steep descents and ascents, axle twisters and recoveries.
The 2024 winter season has been phenomenally wet. In the 8 week period leading up the training day, the mountains and roads in the area have taken a beating. The Franschhoek Pass was closed for a while and only recently reopened with a number of short self policed stop-go's in place. The damage to the roadway is significant. In places half the roadway has slid down the cliffs, allowing only space for one way traffic.
One of several major landslides that have severely damaged the roads in the reserve at the Grabouw training facility / Photo: Shaun Rees
Waterfalls were tumbling down the ravines and in some cases right onto the road surface. We had driven through to Grabouw four days ahead of the event, to recce the route in an effort to ensure our guests would be safe. Protest action at Grabouw had closed the N2 completely, which forced us to drive the long way around via the Franschhoek Pass and the R321, arriving an hour and quarter late. It was just one of those unpredictable things. The recce went well and we soon figured which routes were no longer safe. More than 70% of the routes have been so badly damaged by floodwaters, that they have been closed to all 4x4's - even Unimogs!
From that Wednesday night until late Saturday night, it rained almost non stop, sending another deluge of rain down on the mountain slopes, but on the morning of the training day the rain eased off and some bleak blue sky made an appearance. After registration formalities, radio fitments and tyre deflation had been completed, we gathered inside the back room of the Orchard farm stall for the drivers briefing. Armed with take aways and fresh coffee, the group departed for the mountains at 10.00.
On arrival at the facility it became immediately apparent that it was going to be very much wetter than on the recce trip four days prior. The tracks were basically all little streams - some deeper and faster flowing than others. In the group we had a mixed bag of vehicles. 4 Fords (Ranger, Wildtrak and Raptor), 3 Suzuki JImnys; 2 Prados; 1 Fortuner, 1 Land Cruiser D/Cab, 1 Isuzu D/Cab and for the first time, an Ineos Grenadier, which attracted lots of interest.
Damage to the tracks at Grabouw is extensive / Photo: Shaun Rees
The track must have looked a bit intimidating for the novices, but we soon had them selecting low range, discovering the joys of rock crawling. There were so many washaways and places that just a few days before were fine, that were no longer fine at all. That meant having to scout ahead and back up on at least two occasions. Fortunately the rain held off, allowing us to stop for a bit of socialising from time to time.
Massive landslides scarred the slopes all around us and provided some insight as to the destructive force of water. The pass known as Stoko's Pass that leads up to the hikers' huts at Landdroskop on the Hottentots-Hollands Hiking Trail has been severely damaged. It's going to take a long time to get those roads serviceable again - if ever. All the tracks on the southern side of the reserve are badly damaged.
One of the reasons we use the Grabouw routes for our training is that all of the obstacles are natural and the setting is in a very attractive part of the Western Cape, so it makes for a good all round experience introducing new drivers to the wonders of off-roading. We got the drone airborne during the recce trip over the dominant river (Wesselsgat River) and its attractive dam. Best watched in widescreen with sound on.
There were a few instances of assistance needed, but all of them turned into self recoveries (the best kind) with a little guidance from Shaun Rees (my 2-I-C for the day), who performed yeoman service bounding up and down the convoy, resolving problems and providing one on one guidance to those that needed it. There wasn't a single puncture or any damage to any of the vehicles. Happy MPSA and happy vehicle owners!
By lunchtime it started raining again, so were forced to abort the simulated recovery demonstration. The debriefing took place at the same point as earlier in the day as another 11 happy off-road drivers joined the offroad community armed with completion certificates..
History: The triple murders at Houdenbek
Houdenbek homestead all nice and peaceful today
When you drive along the R303 over the Gydo Pass towards Op Die Berg, another tarred road leads off to the right. This is the southern access road to the Cederberg as well as the Tankwa Karoo via the Katbakkies Pass. Before the tar gives way to gravel a large farming co-op can be seen on the right, with the rather odd name of Houdenbek. It translates loosely as 'Keep your mouth shut'
Let's wind the clock back to 1825 when slaves at the farms began a protest, based on ideas garnered from the French Revolution in the 1790's, when slaves in the Cape strove for freedom. At Houdenbek farms, the owner - Willem van der Merwe - had a reputation for treating his slaves well and even allowed them to carry firearms, a decision that would cost him his life.
Two of his slaves Abel and Galant, decided to start an uprising and shot Van Der Merwe, a visitor to the farm and a private teacher in cold blood. Later a commando was organised and the slaves were caught.
Back at Worcester, a court found them guilty and sentenced them to death. They were beheaded and the skulls were mounted on poles at Koppieshoogte as a deterrent to others not to commit the same offence.
Grisly, but true.
Mountain Kingdom Tour - Day 7
After a solid and tasty breakfast, we rumbled out of Semonkong Lodge in clear weather. The Maletsunyane River was still swollen from all the recent rainfall, rushing under the bridge next to the lodge, as a lonely horseman and few local school kids went about their daily business in the crisp morning air.
We weaved our way through Semonkong - a village that always reminds me an African version of the Wild West. This is probably due to the shanty town look and unorganised nature of the muddy streets, but this is the one place in Lesotho where horse racing is the number one local activity. There are horses everywhere. The exit out of the village was deliberately slow to ensure no guests got lost at the intersections, which are largely unsignposted.
Once back on the main tarred road, we turned south and immediately began climbing another big pass. We pulled over onto a large view site, where we could gaze back up the gorge of the Maletsunyane Falls and river. A local youngster on a horse pulled up to chat to us and rode away bestowed with gifts and a beanie from members of our group. He had really nice manners.
Our uninvited but welcome guest at the Maletsunyane Gorge view point / Photo: Trygve Roberts
We drove south on the smooth tar of the A5 route over two huge (unnamed) passes, Before dropping steeply down to cross the Senqunyane River via the brand new bridge.
Our route took us to Christ the King Mission to see the grand spectacle of the Senqu Horseshoe Canyon, which is the highlight of the final day, before connecting with the A4 at Serofong, where the road follows the Senqu River for some distance on an excellent new road, which had only just been opened to traffic.
There was one final point of interest on this day - to drive the switchback packed Tsoelike River Pass with its old German suspension bridge from 1930. It always makes for a great place to stop for a lunch break.
The drive through to Rama's Gate border post is now fully tarred and a lovely, scenic drive. Border formalities done, all that was left was to descend down the Ramatselito's Pass to Matatiele and a BIG party at Resthaven Guest House, where we had started 8 days earlier.
We will be offering two Mountain Kingdom Tours in 2025. One in April and the other in October.
Featured Pass
We have just published the latest double video set on the Gates of Paradise Pass. It's not a difficult pass in terms of statistics, but it's that alluring name which attracts so many tourists to drive it, with the prize being the beautiful Malealea Lodge.
* * G A T E S O F P A R A D I S E P A S S * *
Trygve Roberts / Editor
"He lik'd those literal crooks
Who skim the cream of others books
And ruin half an author's graces
By plucking bon-mots from their places"
~ Hannah More
