The fortnight that was...
* More wild weather
* Swartberg Tour - Overview
* Technical Corner
* Katberg Tour - Day 5
* Mountain Kingdom Tour - Day 6
* Featured Pass
More wild weather
Lots of snow has fallen all over South Africa, bringing icy temperatures to the Free State, Gauteng and Mpumalanga, but spare a thought for Capetonians who have had to endure a huge amount of rain. The main storage dam, Theewaterskloof, rose from 68% to over 100% in the space of 10 days. Mopping up operations continue at the time of writing, with many roads having been damaged with homes and orchards flooded.
The topography of Cape Town is something of a paradox, where a large flat area is surrounded by tall mountains. When large volumes of rain fall, the low lying areas tend to flood quite easily. The N1 highway near Wingfield / Century City has two lanes closed due to flooding, which has caused long traffic delays. (See leading photo)
Meanwhile, yet another frontal system is scheduled to make landfall this coming weekend. It's a case of battening down the hatches once again as we have a level 5 flood warning.
Swartberg Tour - Day 1
We have always run this tour in July in the hopes of experiencing some snow driving. All the tours have turned into very pleasant weather tours, but the 2024 version 7 was another story altogether. Our tours take place regardless of the weather. Our planning was all in vain, as the tour coincided with the arrival of a South Atlantic cyclone, bringing with it storm level winds in excess of 50 knots, torrential rain and snow above the 1000m mark.
The biggest issue we had to cope with was the wind. It blew incessantly for five days, before finally calming down, allowing us a calm day on the last day. The net effect was that our usual chatty roadside stops, were cut very short as no-one wanted to stand around in the gale force winds, but the positive spin on that was that we made up many hours on our travel times, arriving well ahead of schedule on all, except the final day; but we'll tell you about that soon enough.
Our group gathered at the Rooiberg Lodge near Vanwyksdorp on Sunday, 8th July with all vehicles being mud splattered before the tour even started. Mud would be our companion for the rest of the tour. As we say: "Always look on the brighter side of life - at least there will be no dust"
One of our guests, 84 year old Shane Hewitt from George, sent a message to the lodge advising that he had problems starting his Land Rover and would only arrive the following day, if repairs could be timeously effected.
The warm fires and cosy pub in the main lodge soon got the group into a convival mood. The drivers briefing was held in the (cold) conference room, where the formalities were dealt with, indemnities signed and tour folders handed out. As always Rooiberg Lodge pulled out all the stops and served a delicous three course dinner, whilst guests sampled the red wines. Boplaas proved to be a popular choice!
We had guests as far afield as Limpopo, Gauteng and the Western Cape on this tour. First timers included Garth & Jenni Gill, Trevor and Joan Daniels, Neels & Tilla Kruger and their co-passengers Johan & Jolanda. The wind was gale force out of the west, but the level of rain wasn't nearly as bad as along the coast and in Cape Town. Snow had fallen overnight on the Langeberg and the Swartberg ranges. Finally we would be having a Swartberg Tour which would include some snow.
We scheduled an 0900 ETD for the first day, so guests could sleep in a bit later. Breakfasts at Rooiberg are the Real McCoy, but everyone was ready and raring to go at the sound of the gong. Radio checks were completed and we set off in search of some fine gravel roads to the south of the lodge.
Vanwyksdorp was soggy and silent as we drove a short detour through the village to see some of the old homes and the lovely Dutch Reformed Church, still neatly maintained and no doubt with an active congregation. We took the gravel road south towards the Langeberg. Things were muddy and wet with the occasional vehicle drifting, but the 4WD systems would always kick in and straighten the vehicles out. It's actually a lot of fun when you get the hang of it. The first of the snow capped peaks made an appearance with the promise of an exciting (and cold) day.
We arrived at the Muiskraal Olive Farm bang on time, with the farm stall manager being very pleasantly surprised to have 26 people descend on the produce and probably exceeded his weekly turnover target in 20 minutes. The ladies soon learn to appreciate the relative luxury of a proper toilet stop, as mostly nature's calls are heeded in the "bossies"
Garcias Pass was lovely, but very windy and wet as we descended down to the coastal plateau at Riversdale, where we turned right to drive some magnificent gravel roads past the Korintepoort Dam and on towards Heidelberg. It was much wetter on the southern side of the Langeberge as we gradually worked our way into the west, to reach our westerly turn-around point at the summit of Moodies Pass.
Once we turned downwind, things were a bit more comfortable, especially for the two lady Jimny drivers who had to fight the wheel keeping the lightweight SUV's on track. We drove Boosmansbos, Doringkraal, Seekoeigat and Wapad passes. There is one curved deep water crossing after Seekoeigat, which I was a bit concerned about, but when we arrived there, it was lower than I've ever seen it. I'm still unable to figure that one out. With all the rain and swiftly flowing streams, I was expecting a possible detour. I need not have felt complacent, as on the fnal day, the opposite would take place.
The highlight of the day was the traverse of Gysmanshoek Pass, which was in pristine condition with flowering proteas, ericas and other wild flowers in early bloom. We called a quick comfort break at the summit which offers a fabulous vista over the plains of the Klein Karoo as far as the Swartberg range, which was smothered in snow. We had made good time with all drivers keeping the convoy in close order. This in turn allowed us enough time to drive the Brandrivier loop.
This is a convoluted track connecting about 7 farms along the course of the Brandrivier. There are about 10 farm gates to open and close, so although the length is only about 8 km, it takes almost an hour to drive it. On this road there are sections where we saw antelope roaming freely in the pristine fynbos. At the point where where the road intersects with the tarred R323 at its northern end, there is a large granite boulder on the left, on top of which is a small obelisk and plaque. It's one of several such memorials to the young Boer officer who was executed by British forces after a controversial trial. You have to know where to look, otherwise most folk drive straight past it, blissfully unaware.The photo tells the story:
For our English readers, here is the translation:
"During the Anglo-Boer War, Commandant Gideon Scheepers distinguised himself for his leadership, bravery and for promoting the cause of the Akrikaner. He earned the rank of Commandant on 1st March, 1901, with instructions to invade the Cape Colony. His invasion proved to be excellent and he also operated in this specific area.
A serious stomach ailment resulted in him falling into the hands of the Bristish Forces. After a controversial court case, he was shot by firing squad and buried in Graaff Reinet on the 18th January, 1902.
His remains were secretly exhumed and his final resting place is unknown. Gideon Scheepers died as a young man of 23 and became a martyr that inspired the youth of his time to face their trials and tribulations. He lives in this land now, forever and always. DJ Opperman."
Our route back to Rooiberg was blocked by a road which was clearly cordoned off due to flood damage. This meant having to travel back to the R62, returning to Rooiberg via the main road. Fortunately we had time on our side. About half our guests took up the offer to explore the village of Vanwyksdorp and the so-called (tongue in cheek) "Vanwyksdorp Mall". One of our guests from Jhb had read the pre tour notes about the "mall" and assumed there would be a filling station there. To his dismay, he had to high tail it back to Ladismith to fill up before the start of the tour after a local told him: "Nee wat meneer. Hier is geen brandstof in hierdie dorp nie!"
On arrival back at Rooiberg, our missing guest, Shane Hewitt, had just arrived, which was great news, as it's terrible to be beset by car problems before the tour has even started. The problem was apparently a dead battery. In fact two dead batteries. Both were replaced and the trusty old Land Rover Discovery 1, which we nicknamed "Eileen" from a tour many years ago when one of the suspension lifters caused the right hand side to lean heavily - hence "I lean" was back in business. Shane went on to complete the tour without any further issues.
It was another sociable night around the fire in the lodge, to the accompaniment of much laughter as all the guests started to get to know each other better.
Next Episode: An anti-clockwise loop around the Swartberg - all in one day.
Technical Corner
Here are a few basic tips for newcomers to off-roading.
1. Speed is not your friend.
The off-road driver’s mantra is “As Slow As Possible, As Fast As Necessary.” Sometimes a little speed may be required to climb a hill or conquer a hazard. However, if you think the obstacle requires even 20 kph, you’re probably not going to make it. And you’re going to damage something or get stuck.
2. Sometimes you can’t get there from here.
This is true even with a well-equipped vehicle and a skilled driver. It’s far easier to discover an alternate route than to find someone willing and able to come to your rescue. Walking the rest of the way is better than walking home.
3. Stay on the trail.
Trying to blaze your own trail will more than likely get you stuck, but it also leaves ruts that remain for years. Drive on previously used paths – you’ll know it’s possible to make it through there, and you’ll do less damage to the environment. A warning: Just because somebody else made it doesn’t guarantee you will. Maybe they had a better vehicle, were a more skilled driver or went through before it rained.
4. Walk it first.
If you can’t negotiate mud, sand or other obstacles on foot, it’s highly unlikely your vehicle will make it. It’s critical to check out a water-covered route: Unless you’ve seen another vehicle go through it, you can’t be certain it doesn’t hide a huge hole, rocks or hidden objects.
5. Be willing to walk back.
Never tackle a questionable obstacle unless you’re able to walk back to where help awaits. If you’re going off road, your cell phone will be useless. Even if there is coverage, there’s nobody to call unless you’ve made a prior arrangement. The road-service tow-truck driver won’t leave the tarmac, the farmer with the tractor might not be home and the guy in the SUV you wave down on the highway may not be able or willing to help. Not all SUVs have four-wheel drive and a tow strap.
6. Re-tyre to succeed.
Even the most technologically advanced four-wheel-drive system can’t make up for tyres that are not meant for the job or lack adequate tread depth. Some original equipment tyres on SUVs and pickups can’t conquer anything more rigorous than wet grass. Also, even the best mud tyres become useless off road well before they run out of tread.
7. Help yourself.
If you’re planning to regularly travel the road less paved, bring along some things that’ll help you out of small jams: a hand winch (aka “come-along”), tow strap, high-lift jack, shovel, some wood blocks and a first aid kit. If you’re going farther than you can walk out, bring enough stuff (extra clothes, water, sleeping bag) to survive until somebody finds you. A satellite phone is good insurance to have in your vehicle, but charge the battery before departure and make sure it is loaded with airtime.
8. Tell somebody.
Tell somebody where you’re going and when you expect to be back. At least they’ll know when and where to start searching.
Credit: Mobil's offroad training tips
Katberg Tour - Day 5
A bright sunny morning greeted us as we devoured another famous Katberg breakfast. They really put out a good spread of food!
Our final day of this lovely tour was scheduled to include two nature reserves and a forestry reserve drive. With a relatively short distance planned for the day, we set a later departure time of 09.30, which allowed everyone a sleep in; as always much appreciated and even applauded by the ladies.
Our first stop of the day was the Baddaford Farm Stall, where guests filled up their vehicles with local fare. We set off for the Fort Fordyce Nature Reserve, just a few kilometres away. The pass leading up to the mountain plateau is the Fuller's Hoek Pass, which offers a long steep route through open grasslands, followed by dense indigenous forests and several hairpin bends. It's really a great gravel pass and one you can unreservedly add to your bucket list. Entry into both reserves was free.
The local game ranger, Sibo, came out to greet us where we had parked under the tall trees. Knowledgable and helpful, he quickly slotted in to tell us about the reserve and his role in keeping nature flourishing. The reserve was neat and tidy and eveything seems to be well managed.
Our route took us north to rejoin the Post Retief trunk road, but we soon turned south again to enter the Mpofu Nature Reserve - a sister reserve to Fort Fordyce sharing a common boundary. The pass descending through the reserve is the Blinkwater Pass, which offers stellar views where we had several game sightings amongst our group.
Back on the tarred road to Balfour, we had been making good time, so we decided to offer our guests the option of taking a full on 4x4 drive through the forestry reserve, with the understanding that it was an exploratory route and to expect surprises. Surprises there were aplenty as we followed a GPS route up the mountain, working our way ever upwards, through dense patches of forest and scattered huts, until we finally reached the upper contour road.
Once on the contour road, it became evident that the road had recently been serviced, as potholes had been filled and overhanging branches trimmed. This was organised by Rob Gallo, manager of the Katberg Hotel via one of his contacts in Katberg Forestry. That final drive was outrageously beautiful as we wound our way in and out of the ravines with tantalising glimpses of the Katberg Resort far below in the valley.
We arrived with enough time for a shower and change of clothing before descending on the pub and its warm fires. Rob Gallo had organised some local kids to sing and dance for us - it's an endearing Eastern Cape thing, which went down a treat amongst our guests.
Final night Chappies awards is always a blast and a time of great merriment.
The Hemsted's Jimny was still not mobile and they reluctantly bade the group farewell the following morning. The Jimny's alternator was removed later and sent in to Fort Beaufort, but it came back declared fit for purpose. There was a deeper problem. By Tuesday (two days later) it was discovered that when the fan belt broke, it had damaged the fuel sensor. The latter was dismantled and repaired "farm style". Finally the Jimny was back on the road and ran faultlessly all the way back to Cape Town.
Inquiries for our 2025 Katberg Tour are streaming in. You can reserve a spot by sending us an email:
Lesotho Tour - Day 6
The penultimate day of the tour was the leg from Malealea to Semonkong. Farewells were done to our wonderful hosts at Malealea Lodge, before tackling the slow and bumpy road to the first pass of the day - Gates of Paradise. This is not a particularly big pass, but the view when one crests the summit is sensational. It is said that when the first traders set up camp and later, a store at Malealea. The view was so impressive that they decided there and then that it would become their home. He named the road "Gates of Paradise".
Once down the far side, we took a tarred road and headed back to Roma for a final refuel. This time there were no student protests as we climbed the Ngakana Pass once more headed for Semonkong. It's another road peppered with one pass after the other, until we reached the turnoff to Maletsunyane Falls.
The access road to the falls is in bad shape and strangely out of kilter with the lovely buildings at the falls. It's almost like they decided the budget was spent and that's it!
It's fine being in a high clearance 4x4, but the number of visitors to the falls could be quadrupled with a decent access road. The road has been turned into a toll road with a pay point on the hill above the falls. We have no problem with the authorities collecting money for such a fantastic attraction, but that road is just horrible.
Maletsunyane Falls did not disappoint. Our arrival coincided with a very high peak flow after weeks of good rain in the area. The water was thundering over the cliff, sending great plumes of spray high up the surrounding cliffs. The roar of the water could be felt in the earth under one's feet. What a spectacle!
We got the drone airborne and managed to capture some good footage. We still have to produce the 2024 footage, but here is the video from our 2023 tour for your enjoyment.
Lesotho's well known blanket lady, Me Masotho, had the group captivated with her interesting and informative talk on the blankets of Lesotho. She did some brisk business as guests indulged themselves in buying the real thing and a wonderful memoir of the tour.
We weren't quite done with Maletsunyane as Philip offered to guide those who were willing, to view the falls from a lower, closer perspective. This involved a muddy, rocky two spoor track down to a lower ridge. All went well, but persistent drizzle ensured the route back to the top would be a slippery affair. Most vehicles ascended unaided but Casper's VW California bus got stuck.
We turned the MPSA Cruiser around so we could winch him up the difficult part, but when he tried fitting the towing eye, it wouldn't screw in. The custom front bull bar was just a few mm too thick. We had a problem at that stage, as how to get him back to the upper section without a towing eye. We considered turning the VW around so we could winch him up backwards. Not ideal, but we were running out of options. Casper requested "one last attempt" and promptly gunned the VW up the hill and to drier ground amidst cheers by the locals and bystanders and the unpleasant sound of metal body parts banging against the muddy rocks. The sparks literally went flying.
Shortly afterwards we arrived at a wet and soggy Semonkong and settled in to our rooms ahead of Chappies Hour and a lovely meal.
Next Episode: Semonkong to Matatiele.
Featured Pass
We stay in Lesotho this week and take you over a little known pass (the Sekokong Pass) which straddles the Senqu River close to where the new Polihali Dam's waters will rise to smother this pass under water. This is probably the last video that will ever be made of the old pass. In the video, you will get a good idea of the scale of the Polihali construction and the enormous new bridge that will span the gorge some 80m above the river bed. Once the new pass has been completed, we will return and refilm the new pass from scratch.
* * S E K O K O N G P A S S * *
Trygve Roberts / Editor
"The most dangerous foe to truth and freedom in our midst is the compact majority. Yes, the damned, compact, liberal, majority"