What's up Doc?
* Hello Summer?
* Tours & Trips
* Lesotho Tour Part 5
* Technical
* Katberg Tour Part 2
* Featured Pass
HELLO SUMMER?
With the shortest day of the year behind us, we can look forward to small increments of additional sunlight as we slowly move into the second part of the winter. From a Cape Town perspective it's been a very mild winter so far and not nearly enough rain has fallen. Local dams are standing at an average of 68% compared to the same time last year at 84%. The second half of winter is almost always more severe than the first half in the Western Cape, whereas upcountry, things tend to be the opposite.
The southern parts of the Western Cape, the Little Karoo and parts of the coastal belt of the Eastern Cape took a walloping in June with lots of infrastructure damage. Most of the roads have been either partially or fully reopened to traffic - and just in time for our Swartberg Tour which starts on 7th July.
In the grip of a 5 year financial winter is the Tiffindell Ski Resort. All the legal wrangles have finally been tied up and the property is officially up for sale. It will be interesting to see how the next Tiffindell chapter unfolds and whether The Ben MacDhui Pass will ever be driven again.
TOURS & TRIPS
We have been inundated with inquiries for our 2025 Katberg Tour. It seems we hit the sweet spot with this inaugural version. Half of the places have already been pre-booked.
We've had a cancellation for our 11th August Grabouw 4x4 Novice Training Day. Book here.
We are looking to grow our tour offerings in 2025 by engaging other guides to help with the workload, so next year we plan on doubling the number of tours. This will also allow me to explore and create new tours (like the Katberg Tour). More news on this development when its cast in concrete.
KATBERG TOUR - PART 2
Our route followed the Fish Tunnel for a while before branching off to the west, following a quiet dirt road up the northern flank of the Waainek Pass. This was a delightful drive with some nice technical bits thrown in to keep the adrenaline flowing. We passed the main farmhouse near the summit, then faced the very long descent down to the coastal plateau at Somerset East.
Our route in Day 2 of the Katberg Tour. Graphics by Gaia. Produced by Derick Van Eeden
The Waainek Pass is one of those hidden gems. Tucked into the well wooded ravines of the Boschberg, Graskop and Witkrans mountains north of Somerset East and mostly falling within the boundaries of the Glen Avon Falls Kloof Natural Heritage Site, this long gravel pass will hold you spell-bound, with breathtaking views, sharp corners, technical driving and a big altitude loss. You might even be lucky and spot some wildlife, as we did on the day of the tour when a large group of warthogs sauntered over the road near the summit. There were also klipspringers, rhebuck and rooibok about. If you're in this part of the Eastern Cape and you have a few hours to spare, go and drive this one. It's a beauty!
Vulcan's Bellows Outspan in perfect winter light / Trygve Roberts
The descent took almost an hour, but eventually we were on the tarred R63 enjoying the smooth wonders of tarmac for the first time since Cradock. We routed past Cookhouse, where your scribe attended junior school for 2 forgettable years. There's a good reason they call it Cookhouse!
East Poort is smooth winding section of the N10 that follows the river and reveals the massive wind farms in the area. We arrived at Bedford and quickly located our overnight venue, the Duke of Bedford Hotel. Nothing could have prepared us for what we experienced. In the tiny village of Bedford, hidden behind the facade of an old colonial building, this hotel has been lavished with the finest of upgrades imaginable, with top quality fittings, linen and the food was good too. If you're looking for an overnight stay, go and book in here. The prices were more than reasonable as well.
Duke of Bedford Hotel courtyard.
We had a slight hiccup the following morning when a group of international touring cyclists, selfishly took extra food for their "padkos" which left half our group without a hot breakfast. It would be the first of several time issues that day. The hotel quickly jumped in and made us fresh food. That delayed our departure by 45 minutes, which would add to our dilemmas that day, trying to pace the clock. Despite my best efforts we ran out of time which resulted in a drive down the Katberg Pass in full darkness.
Our convoy trundled quietly back towards Cookhouse the next morning on the smooth tar of the R61, with full tanks and contented occupants. After a short drive we took a right turn onto gravel where we found ourselves in what appeared to be some sort of a roadblock.
Foot & Mouth Disease Control Point at Baviaansrivier near Bedford / Photo: Derick Van Eeden
Foot & Mouth Disease (FMD) had broken out in the area and strict protocols were in place requiring all vehicle's wheels to be sprayed, signing in and filling in forms before we were allowed into the Baviaansrivier farming area. That sneaked another 30 minutes off the clock chase, but it was all worthwhile. This was an additional loop that I had discovered when scouring Google Earth for alternate routes, so it was virgin territory for all of us.
After two hours of driving through pristine mountain farms; opening and closing endless gates (there were over 30 of them), we came across a surprised looking English-speaking farmer, who seemed convinced that we were lost and warned me that "It's going to quite wet down there" - gesturing in the direction of a deep valley ahead.
There were many game sightings on this tour, like this Kudu / Photo: MPSA Guest
Farmers generally speak the truth and if anything, they will play conditions down, so I was driving carefully being the lead vehicle, making sure I didn't get stuck and monitored the GPS was tracking correctly, as it's so easy to make an incorrect turn when there are precious few signs around, and more so when it's the first time driving a new route.
As things turned out, there was some mud, but nothing that could trip any of us up. Grumbling bellies necessitated a lunch time stop along a nice flat stretch of farm road, surrounded by mountains and an inky blue farm dam. It was here that the first signs of trouble appeared with the 'Red Baron' - (Tom & Jeanne Hemsted's well-travelled 1.3 Jimny). It appeared to be overheating. Tom added some water to the reservoir and all seemed to be OK.
It also coincided with the Red Baron falling to the tail end of the convoy as it was their turn to do sweep for the rest of the afternoon. We were about 8 km from Post Retief, with the convoy having spread out a bit and our radio comms were getting a bit scratchy in the hilly terrain. A message was relayed from another Jimny owner, Derick Van Eeden, that he had not seen the Red Baron for a while. They were not responding to radio messages either. We stopped the convoy whilst Derick turned his Jimny around to locate the Hemsteds. Theo Hammond (our ever present mechanical boffin) and myself (more akin to the KFC brigade) also travelled back several kilometres to where Derick had located the Hemsteds marooned in the crook of a valley about 4 km back.. We left another vehicle midway as a relay station between the back and front of the group, ably manned by Mike Waspe..
The Red Baron with Theo on the left and owner, Tom on the right. /Photo: Derick Van Eeden
The overheating problem had reared its head again, plus there was a new problem, the battery seemed dead, which accounted for the radio set not working. Theo got stuck in and soon ascertained that one of the two fan belts was missing. After bruising his knuckles (Theo has oversized hands) and cutting his hands, we realised we had a problem. Theo asserted that the radiator needed to be removed to get the new fan belt on, but we didn't have the right tools. I was watching the clock and was very much aware that we were highly likely to be arriving at the Katberg Hotel in the dark.
After struggling for over an hour, we made the decision to push the Jimny off the road, where it wouldn't be a hindrance to other vehicles. Tom and Jean got a lift with Theo, while I took most of their luggage in the Land Cruiser. We would make a plan the following day as to how we would recover the JImny. By the time we reached the summit of Dewaalskloof Pass (which shares a common summit with the Katberg Pass), it was fully dusk. The time was just after 17.00. I knew from the recce trip a few months prior, that the descent would take us a full hour, if not longer. I prepared all the drivers mentally via the radios as to what lay ahead and that 100% focussed attention would be required. As slow as possible - as fast as necessary.
Katberg Pass summit at sunset / Photo: Trygve Roberts
The upper section of the Katberg Pass is quite rough these days with big rock steps, where the Jimny's and the Grand Vitara were regularly botomming out. After about 15 minutes, another radio call came from Derick requesting a repeat of the directions at the summit. We have a golden rule on our tours - "Wait at an intersection and make sure the vehicle behind has made the correct turn".
Chris Sutton, driving a Land Rover Defender in the middle of the convoy and on his first tour with MPSA forgot to wait. That resulted in the last six vehicles all making an incorrect turn. It's not the first time this has happened on our tours and the reason why those who tour with us, will hear me repeating this instruction at every intersection for the entire duration of the tour, ad nauseum. They were already descending Devils Bellows heading away from the rest of the group, when Derick realised there was something wrong. They weren't seeing the same landmarks that we had described over the radio. We stopped the front group; gave new instructions with clear landmarks to the rear group and spent another 20 minutes in the pitch darkness, waiting for them to turn around and close up the gap.
Katberg Pass waiiting for the last 6 to catch up / Photo: Trygve Roberts
I will never forget the absolute darkness that night. There were no stars or a moon out, not a breath of wind, not a sound from the forest around us - a total blackout. We waited at the point where half the roadway had partially slid down the mountain in 2023. It was very narrow there, but well signposted with reflective tape and a warning sign. Staring down the landslide into the unknown depths was quite unnerving for some of the guests. Everyone made it safely down the mountain and soon we were checking in at the Katberg Hotel where we were warmly welcomed by their friendly (and hard working) staff, with a complimentary glass of gluhwien - just what the doctor ordered!
It was a very chatty Chappies Hour that night and Chris received his punishment in good spirit - a round of drinks for the whole group!
Next Episode: Hogsback and the Silver River Pass.
TECHNICAL - SEVEN SNIPPETS OF OFF-ROAD WISDOM
Becoming part of the 4x4 world can be a daunting experience. The vast majority of people head straight to the accessories shops and buy a lot of expensive things that they probably don't need and add unneccesary weight and windage, not to mention a large hole in their wallets.
Step 1: When you get your first 4x4, the best advice is to enroll in a beginners course, where you will learn how the gearbox works, how to select low range and how the diff-lock works. Instructors will guide you over specific obstacles that will include, mud, soft sand, rocks, steep ascents and descents as well as axle twisters. All the courses will include recovery techniques.
Step 2: You only need a few items to go off-roading. These include basic tools, jack and wheel spanner, first aid kit, torch, compressor, tyre pressure gauge, water and a good map. Never rely 100% on a GPS. They regularly take unsuspecting drivers to the wrong places. If it doesn't feel right, stop and check a paper map and apply some common sense.
Step 3: Forget about the roof rack, the roof top tent, the Hilift jack, gas bottles, axes, spades and other heavy equipment for now. Keep your vehicle light and learn to pack efficiently. All the heavy gear should be placed as low as possible in the vehicle and in the centre. Keep the weight off the front and rear, which will make your vehicle unstable and cause it to hobby-horse.
Step 4: Don't go for a suspension lift, shocks upgrade etc. All of those changes will affect the road holding of your vehicle and lead to complications with your steering and suspension in time to come, as well as negatively affect fuel consumption. You also don't need 12 spotlights on the roof. Most modern vehicles have excllent enough headlights.
Step 5: Initially you don't need two spare wheels. Leave that for when you decide to go overlanding.
Step 6: Probably the most overrated 4x4 accessory is a snorkel. It's ugly, creates additional drag and serves very little purpose. We have travelled over a million kilometres without a snorkel on any of our Land Cruisers. That included very deep-water crossings, choking dust and three extended desert trips.
Step 7: Don't buy wider tyres than that specified by the vehicle manufacturer. This adds extra strain onto your steering system and drive train, which could lead to very expensive repairs later. It will also worsen your fuel consumption.
LESOTHO TOUR - PART 5
An easier day of mainly tar road driving lay in store with some really big passes to look forward to. The passes start just outside Thaba Tseka and run back to back to the outskirts of Maseru along the A3 route. Each pass has its own unique attraction and all of them are impressive. From east to west the passes are the Mokoabong, Cheche's, Pass of Jackals, Marakabeis, Likalaneng, Blue Mountain, God Help Me and Bushmen's passes.
We used up almost a terrabyte of data trying to get all these filmed. The weather didn't always play the game either, but we got about 80% of them on video. Most of these still have to be produced and will be released one by one as we work our way through them, Just for the record it takes approximately 20 hours to edit and narrate a 5 minute video.
Sam Matekane , Prime Minister of Lesotho
Just after completing the descent of Cheche's Pass, we drove through the village of Mantsonyane. This is the home town of Lesotho's current prime minister, Sam Matekane. It immediately becomes obvious that this vilage is a step up from the norm with solar powered street lights, a football stadium, filling station and a shopping mall. The real surprise is the large thatched mansion on the hillside on the right, which is Matekane's home.
Samuel Matekane (born 15 March 1958) is a Mosotho businessman and politician who is the current Prime Minister of Lesotho. Prior to running, he was considered to be the richest person in the country. Matekane made his fortune in diamond mining, as well as through government issued construction contracts. He founded his company, Matekane Group of Companies (MGC) in 1986.
In March 2022, Matekane held a press conference at his hotel, and formed the Revolution for Prosperity (RFP) party. Matekane self-funded a political campaign with a heavy social media presence and won the 2022 Lesotho General Election.
Through MGC, Matekane has funded several projects in the country. Matekane funded the construction of a football stadium, a school, and a convention center and a cost-sharing owner-farmer scheme farm in his village of Mantšonyane. During the COVID-19 pandemic, he bought testing equipment, vaccines and other medical necessities and donated them. He has made donations amounting to M8 million in Police Uniforms, and M2 million in equipment for the Lesotho Defense Force.
Halfway through the Likalaneng Pass, we turned right in the direction of the Mohale Dam. The road to Mohale is a lovely drive in itself revealing vast views of the dam surface surrounded by towering mountains.
Cheche's Pass was the scene of a fatal car accident which claimed the life of Lesotho's reigning monarch (at the time), King Moshoeshoe ll, on the 15th January 1996. If you know where to look, there's a small shrine on the western side of the pass in a ravine.
Cheche's Pass is full of nasty surprises! / Photo: Trygve Roberts
A more chilling tale unfolds as one drives along the last pass, Bushmen's Pass, where two government officials and their wives were slain by Lesotho Defence Force soldiers.
Two former Cabinet ministers in the Lesotho government and their wives were abducted from a weekend dinner party and murdered..
Vincent Makhele, Lesotho’s foreign minister until a military coup last January, and Desmond Sixishe, the former information minister, were taken to remote Bushman’s Pass in Lesotho’s Maluti Mountains and killed.
Political observers in Maseru had no doubts that they stemmed directly from the two men’s membership in the Cabinet of the ousted prime minister, Chief Leabua Jonathan, and from their own efforts to gather the new regime’s opponents in a leftist political front.
Once the descent down Bushmen's Pass was completed we were on the so-called Lesotho Lowlands on the outskirts of Maseru, where the traffic grew busier as we drove past the international airport and on to Roma, before branching off to Thaba Bosiu, our next overnight venue.
Next Episode: Kome Caves, Malealea and some wild women dancing around the firepit!
FEATURED PASS
Hacked out of the sheer cliff faces of the Cape Peninsula's south-western seaboard, an iconic road, much loved by locals and international tourists alike, can be attributed to the extraordinary vision of Sir Nicolaas Frederic de Waal KCMG (8 July 1853 – 5 April 1932) who was the first Administrator of the Cape Province in South Africa. He was born in Rotterdam, Netherlands and arrived in South Africa in 1880 where he settled in Middelburg and opened a law practice. He became a leading figure in the Afrikaner Bond and in 1898 became a member of the Parliament of the Cape of Good Hope. In 1908, he became Colonial Secretary in the cabinet of Prime Minister John X. Merriman.
After the formation of the Union of South Africa in 1910, De Waal became the Administrator of the Cape Province until his retirement in 1926. As Administrator, he initiated the construction of a high-level road linking the city to the Southern Suburbs, known until 2017 as De Waal Drive. He also initiated the construction of Chapman's Peak Drive between Hout Bay and Noordhoek, a major engineering challenge.
We recently refilmed this amazing pass in 4K. The new videos x 4 can be viewed via the link below.
* * C H A P M A N S P E A K D R I V E * *
Trygve Roberts / Editor
"Necessity hath no law" ~ Oliver Cromwell
