What's Up?
* WILD COAST
* CEDERBERG - PART 3
* GARDEN ROUTE - DAY 4
* SWARTBERG - DAY 5
* KOUGA BAVIAANS - DAY 1
* PASS OF THE WEEK
WILD COAST TOUR V7
With our Wild Coast Tour coming up on the 31st October, we will be at Kob Inn by the time you read this. We had to write this one quite a long way ahead of the publishing date, so a lot of water will be under the bridge - figuratively and literally. We have an interesting mix of vehicles: 5 x Toyota Land Cruisers, 3 x Toyota Fortuners, 2 x Toyota Hilux's, 3 x Suzuki Jimny's, 1 x Pajero and 1 x Isuzu 250 DC. It's the rainy season so there will be plenty of mud, mud, glorious mud! There are no changes to the tour itinerary and we will no doubt be having a whale of a time.
CEDERBERG - PART 3
Once safely over the flooded Matjiesrivier, the gravel route to Eselbank beckoned. We only saw one other vehicle on this section - a beautifully kitted Unimog camper driven by an enthusiastic young couple, who it turned out, are MPSA followers on Facebook. We stopped briefly for a chat in the near perfect weather, surrounded by the peaks of the Cederberg. They were on their way to Kagga Kamma.
The roads were better than I was expecting and we made swift progress towards Eselbank, which was typically dotted with pools of winter water. The first target for the day was a visit to the Eselbank waterfall. As lovely as this waterfall is, the best views are from the north-east - the very direction that is most difficult to access. Crossing the fast flowing river was not really an option, so we put the drone up to get some stills and video. (See cover pic)
The back road to Eselbank is sparsely populated.
The entire route was pristine and still smothered in wild flowers as we worked our way northwards through the Rooibos plantations and down the Eselbank (Kerskop) Pass. The views as one descends slowly down to Wupperthal are truly breath-taking as the deep valleys with their horizontal sandstone ridges stretch away into the south.
Wupperthal was tjoepstil, despite it being a Tuesday. The shoe factory is still operating but only open Mondays to Fridays. The village has made good progress in terms of its recovery from the devastating fire that burnt most of the village down a few years ago. The Nutec temporary houses that were erected on the sports field, seem to have become a permanent feature unfortunately.
Hoek se Berg Pass overlooking the Biedouw Valley / Photo: Trygve Roberts/MPSA
The two big passes of Kouberg and Hoek se Berg gain plenty of elevation as the gravel eventually gives way to tar at the Englishman's Grave. There are a number of versions of what happened to the Englishman. The one we have read about describes a scene towards the end of the Anglo Boer War, where the ZAR had capitulated to the British. The war was officially over, but some of the Boer commandos had not yet heard the news. The lone English soldier was left to guard the route from Calvinia to Clanwilliam. A heavily armed Boer commando comprising 12 men on horseback were approached by the English soldier and bravely instructed them to lay down their arms. The Boer's assumed it was a ruse and shot the English soldier dead.
The grave is well tended and often has fresh flowers placed on it. It's a poignant story that comes to life when one is standing on the wide plateau with the sun beating down on your neck and the only sound are the cicadas.
Clanwilliam was busy and noisy. It was with instant relief that we were back on the gravel heading towards Algeria. The Clanwilliam Dam was brim-full and looking marvellous. The recent rains had hammered the roads and at the fork to Algeria, there was a road closed sign, forcing us to take the road along the banks of the dam. That turned out to be one of the highlights of the day, with magnificent displays of flowers wherever we looked.
Deep water and strong currents at the crossing of the Olifantsrivier near the N7 / Photo: Trygve Roberts
Arriving at the main gravel road between the N7 and Algeria, the road was also closed as the Olifants River was surging powerfully over the low water bridge. The water was so deep over the bridge that there wasn't even a wave to be seen. We turned left and drove over the Nieuwoudts Pass towards Algeria.
Next Episode: Uitkyk Pass, Dwarsrivier, Kromrivier
KOUGA BAVIAANS TOUR - DAY 1
This tour was destined to be special and different for a number of reasons. It all started at the Karoo town of Steytlerville, which is always in a state of drought. The signs at our hotel warned of serious water shortages and begged visitors to use the commodity sparingly. We had booked at the Karroo (they spell it with two r's) Theatrical Hotel. It's a venue we have been intrigued about for a number of years and many of our clients have recommended it. Trying to get a booking for such a large group wasn't easy. Eventually the owner, Mark, suggested they could do a show for us on a Wednesday. Thus the concept evolved that we would reverse the routing of the tour and rather start in Steytlerville, than end there.
By the time we arrived there most of our guests were already well entrenched on the spacious stoep sipping cold wine, whilst they enjoyed the warm Karoo weather. The hotel is located just outside town on a quiet farm road. My first impression was that I had arrived at the Hotel California. Everything about the hotel fitted. The semi desert landscape, the wide verandas, the cobbled courtyards, small fountains surrounded by colourful mosaics and thousands of finishing touches to the decor that transport one through a time warp. The Eagles kept playing in my head.
"Mirrors on the ceilings.
Pink champagne on ice.
We are all just prisoners here of our own device."
One of several courtyards at the KTH / Photo: Trygve Roberts
All the VHF radios were fitted and with time running out and an easy first day scheduled, we postponed the driver's briefing to the following morning. Canapes and finger snacks were served outside and more of Bacchus' favourite product ensured a well mellowed group by the time the dinner gong was rung four times. And they really do have a proper dinner gong, like the hotels in the fifties. Barrie Barnardt - the official king of smart-ass quips, said:
"Well I guess dinner is a four gong conclusion"
We took our seats in the small theatre and enjoyed the starter, which our resident bobotie experts declared as being 'Uit die boonste rakke'
Jacques (Mark's partner) moved from table to table with an antique ventriloquist's puppet. The puppet was a work of art and had come through three generations of his family. This was a nice nice personal touch getting to know all the guests in person via an informal chat with the puppet.
Mark playing the baby grand / Photo: Karroo Theatrical Hotel
Next up was what I thought was the best part of the show. A long table laid out with an array of bottles - each partially filled with water to make up all the notes on a keyboard when struck with a small padded stick. Mark played a few recognizable classical pieces on this device which was interesting, unique entertainment.
After the dinner plates were cleared, the main cabaret proceeded. Mark played the piano - Jacques mimed a drag show, the two of them alternating. The show was long and could comfortably have been shortened by 50%.
We slept well, waking to a much cooler day on Thursday, with dark clouds gathering in the east and a fresh breeze to accompany it. Our route was supposed to an easy one - from Steytlerville to Patensie via the T3 Baviaans route and the Antoniesberg Pass. We had no idea what adventure lay ahead (which with hindsight, was a good thing!)
Next Episode: The river is deep!
SWARTBERG CLASSIC - DAY 6
Vijay Gajjar drives a Nissan X-Trail and is a really good sport. He looks 20 years younger than the age indicated on his ID. He did our sand training course in Atlantis earlier this year, leaving a fair bit of Nissan Tupperware behind, which was subsequently duck taped back onto his vehicle, leaving it looking like a patient fresh from the emergency room. Undaunted, Vijay booked on the Swartberg Tour, where he and his wife, Bernie were thoroughly enjoying themselves. At one of the view sites, after a lunch break, Vijay announced on the radio that his Nissan wouldn't start. No Ignition. Nothing. Nada. Morsdood!
Vijay's X-Trail playing up on Lawson's Pass / Photo: Trygve Roberts
We had enough blokes on this tour with good mechanical knowledge as we bent to the task of figuring out what the problem was. Sometimes one can't see the wood for the trees, as was the case here. I can't remember who made the suggestion, but someone suggested we try a jump start, so the Cruiser was turned around, jumper cable attached and Voila! - the Nissan started easily. It turned out that the battery had developed a dead cell and it decided that the top of a 4x4 route was a good place to call it quits. Vijay made it back to the end point and also made it back to Cape Town without any further issues, where the battery was replaced. End of problem.
But let's get back to Lawson's Pass. It was the unquestionable highlight of the day.
Lawson's Pass is a 16, 2 km long 4x4 route over the Gamkaberg and is located about 35 km south-east of Calitzdorp in the Little Karoo. It lies within the boundaries of the Gamkaberg Nature Reserve and offers exceptional mountain and valley views, coupled with a true eco-experience and a good chance of spotting game. The route is only open to 4x4 vehicles with adequate ground clearance and it is rated Grade 2. With most of the steeper sections being concreted, there aren't really any traction issues. To drive the route from north to south, it's necessary to make special arrangements with the manager, as the south gate is locked and the lock combination must be obtained, when you get your permit.
The gradients are very steep in places - to the point where you can only see sky and your bonnet in places. It's as well as the road is concreted on these sections, so you can concentrate on your speed and gearing. The views are magnificent as one climbs right up to 1100m ASL at the summit. We stopped at the canyon viewpoint which involved a short walk to a viewing platform which allows full views up and down the canyon.
The flowers in the reserve were amazing; in fact amongst the best we had seen on the entire tour, which is a serious measure of excellence. The descent into the south is at a much easier gradient where drivers and passengers can ease off the concentration and enjoy the fauna and flora more.
The intersection where we almost lost our Swiss guests / Photo: MPSA
There is only one intersection on the trail and one of our guests failed to make the turn. I'm mentioning it here as it's an important reminder how quickly things can go pear shaped when the guide's instructions are not adhered to. Those that have toured with us will know that our golden rule is: 'You are responsible for the vehicle behind you'
Angela Baumann and Roger Hofer are from Switzerland and found the radio chatter a bit irritating, so they turned the volume down and consequently didn't hear the radio message to turn left at the intersection. The vehicle ahead did wait for them, but it wasn't easily visible as the corner had a few bushes hiding the vehicle, resulting in Angela happily continuing in the wrong direction. Luckily we realised we had a missing chicken quite soon and by process of Angela's description of what she could see, we were able to direct her back to the intersection. So there's another good reason to always keep the volume of your VHF radio on and why the sweep always repeats the lead vehicle's instructions.
Regrouping of the convoy took place once we exited the reserve, from where we headed to Rooiberg Lodge. There was another river crossing waiting for us, which I knew might be a problem.
Next Episode: Crossing the Gouritz
GARDEN ROUTE TOUR - DAY 4
Portland Manor was to be our base for two nights on this tour. After a healthy breakfast we took the 7 Passes Road back to Knysna, turning north up the Simola Hill Climb, past the golf course and then back onto gravel as we entered the indigenous forests of Gouna. The drive over the Gouna Pass is always a delight and that sharp concreted left hander near the northern summit is always steeper than what one thinks.
The Gouna River was running swiftly with its amber waters just skimming over the causeway. A small structure is part of the waterworks by Knysna Municipality where water is collected here to supplement the town's main water supply.
Kom se Pad is one of the best forest drives in South Africa. It's a haven of shade, tall trees, tumbling trees, shafting sunlight and birdsong. It connects the Gouna Forestry Station with Diepwalle in the east on the R339 route. Here we turned north again to enjoy all the history and scenic delights on offer on the longest mountain pass in South Africa at 68 km - Prince Alfred's Pass, which is another of Thomas Bain's famous engineering efforts.
Prince Alfrfed's Pass from Buffelsnek / Photo: MPSA
We took the steep drive up to the Spitskop viewsite where 360 degree views are up for grabs and the ocean is clearly visble from Robberg to Knysna. No camera can capture the scene adequately. It has to be seen in person. On the day we were there a warm, blustery berg wind reduced the visibility substantially, but not so much as to not enjoy ourselves.
De Vlugt is a tiny hamlet on the banks of the Keurboomsrivier. There's some zany signage there including the famous one at Angie's G-Spot and a number of newer ones at the little shop under the wild fig tree, where we parked off to enjoy our lunch break. Some of those signs are a little risque for this newsletter.
Next Episode: Klein Langkloof and the Elephant Trumpet
PASS OF THE WEEK
As part of our Swartberg Tour route, we always drive Lawson's Pass on the final day. For all the armchair travellers, you can watch the video on the link below and get an idea what it's like.
* * L A W S O N S P A S S * *
Trygve Roberts / Editor
"A smart man only believes half of what he hears, a wise man knows which half." ~ Jeff Cooper
