The week that was....
* Bain's Kloof Pass
* Tours & Trips
* Escom - a lost cause
* Wild Coast V4 Tour - Day 5
* Podcast
* Pass of the Week
* Plato
Bain's Kloof Pass
Last week we reported that the pass had reopened to normal traffic. Just one day after writing that newsletter a pantechnicon attempted driving over the newly opened pass and got itself horribly stuck, causing some damage to the roadway and retaining walls. We posted the photo (above) on our social media platforms and a storm of comments followed. It would appear that rookie truck drivers relying on GPS instructions are often routed from the N1 via Bain's Kloof Pass. Once they have made the commitment and entered under the gantry with the chains just after the Breede River crossing in the north, it's already too late, as there is nowhere to turn a large truck around, so they carry on getting themselves ever deeper into trouble.
The question must be raised whether Bain's Kloof Pass should become a toll road, reserved strictly for vehicles under 5 tons, motorcycles and cyclists. There are two safe alternative routes (N1 and R46) for heavy trucks and fast traffic. The new road surface allows for faster speeds. Motocycles might well be heading that way to race their machines around the many curves and corners. A toll road would solve the problem of trucks heading up the pass, plus funds generated could pay for the installation of CCTV camera systems to control grafitti vandals and speed offenders. We would recommend a maximum speed of 40 kph on the pass. The pass is a national monument and although no-one likes a toll road, it seems like a very sound solution.
Trips & Tours
July - Swartberg Tour - Fully booked
September - Garden Route Classic (5 days) - 3 places left
October - Seven Sisters Tour (2 days) - Bookings have just opened - 8 places left
Eskom
Load shedding has done an enormous amount of harm to our country. It affects the entire population negatively. Reading up on the state of the power utility it seems that Eskom is not trying to raise more capital for increased generating capacity. This is due to the fact that private companies are standing by ready to breach the gap with solar and wind power (many wind farms have been built but are not yet connected to the grid). Eskom will shrink in size in the months and years ahead and become an ever decreasing role player in the power game (pun intended). The sooner the better!
Wild Coast V4 Tour - Day 5
The day of the waterfalls.
It was time to say farewell to our hosts at Mbotyi River Lodge and head south. We did our 6th traverse of the Mbotyi Pass and drove the short jeep track to the Fraser Falls view point. The feature of this waterfall is that one is not expecting such a dramatic scene after driving through some flat and innocuous meadows. At first glance it looks like the water is pouring out of a hole or tunnel in the mountain, but this is merely an optical illusion.
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Fraser Falls near Mbotyi, Wild Coast / Photo: Mbotyi.co.za
Once you walk to the furthest flat rocks for a more direct viewing angle, it becomes evident that the river has carved a narrow gorge through the bedrock about halfway down the sill. The waterfall is impressive enough but the real attraction is the gorge which disappears at least 100m down into a densely vegetated gorge. It is a beautiful place and time stands still here as the sound of the falls and the birdsong envelopes one.
A two spoor track leads into the forest to the south - one of our secret routes - which popped us out onto the main road next to the Magwa tea factory. A lovely tree lined road leads down to the highlight of the day - Magwa Falls.
I have personally visited the falls many times and each time I am awed at the spectacle. The good rains in the area ensured we would enjoy something special. Crossing the river looks more daunting than it is and the water was (euphemistically) refreshing. We got everyone across, including 86 year old Bruce Kraut. A short, muddy walk gets one to the view point where the magical sight of tons of crystal clear water dropping 142m down into the narrow chasm sets the pulse racing.
A word of warning for this view point is that it is very dangerous. There are no guard rails - a slip or a lapse of concentration would most certainly result in a fatality. People suffering from vertigo should stay well away from the edge. One of the two car wrecks can be clearly seen at the bottom; the most recent one apparently a suicide where two people went over the edge to their deaths. The white car can be clearly seen near the base of the falls.
Magwa Falls viewed from the southern bank / Photo: MPSA
We rejoined the R61 (famously known for its 300 plus bends and likley to make passengers car-sick) and drove the four back to back passes down to Port St Johns, dodging taxis, courier vans and building supply trucks - all seemingly in a life and death struggle with time. The notorious speed bumps which are unique to this part of Pondoland appear suddenly and often without any warning - the white diagonal stripes barely visible from a million tyres wearing them off over time. Soon the Gates of St John became visible, as we would down the last few bends to cross the mighty Umzimvubu via the White Bridge.
We negotiated the busy town centre of Port St Johns and drove up the airport road to visit Mount Thesiger. This is also where an SADF military base still exists and visitors have to pass a security checkpoint. The soldiers were friendly and efficient and we got everyone through in short order. The very steep drive through the forest levels off right at the start of the airstrip.
The airstrip dates back to WW2 and although more than 80 years old is still in remarkable condition and in use for small aircraft. As a fun part of our tour, we organise some drag racing, matching up vehicles of similar power where possible. We gathered at the northern end of the runway for photos of the Umzimvubu River and our overnight stay - Cremorne Estate. A light aircraft passed overhead and it became clear that it intended landing, so we put our plans on hold until the pilot had landed safely and collected two passengers headed for who knows where?
Light aircraft on finals at Port St Johns airstrip / Photo: MPSA
The drag racing is always a huge amount of fun and enjoyed by everyone with much ragging going on between marques and models with the fastest vehicle being a rather fast Land Rover Discovery. It was time to call it a day as we returned to Port St Johns, crossed the White Bridge and arrived at Cremorne. The setting is very attractive where large old trees create lots of shade over green (and soggy) lawns. The river had recently flooded its banks. There were a few issues around maintenance at Cremorne and the kitchen struggled to serve our meals in a reasonable period of time, but all in all, we had an enjoyable stay.
Next week: Excecution Rock & Majola Tea Estates
PODCAST
We chat about days 2,3 & 4 of the Wild Coast V4 Tour. CLICK TO LISTEN
SEVEN SISTERS TOUR DETAILS
View from Suzie - one of the 7 sisters peaks / Photo: MPSA
Brand new and unique! A weekend to remember. We have put in a lot of effort to launch our inaugural Seven Sisters Tour. The tour includes some experiences not open to the general public, making this two day tour very special.
- Explore the Huguenot service tunnel.(with a TOLCON guide)
- Drive the Seven Sisters Pass. (Private/Cape Nature)
- Lunch in the Hawequas forest – completely private
- Old Du Toitskloof Pass
- Slanghoek Valley
- Bain’s Kloof Pass (recently refurbished and a joy to drive)
- Wine tasting at Diemersfontein wine estate
- Overnight at Diemersfontein (Dinner, bed and breakfast)
- Drive the two spoor track Dawie se Pad - from Eerste Tol to the headwaters of the Witte River. (Limietberg Nature Reserve)
- Visit Uplands. One of the oldest farms in the Wellington valley (200 years old ) and learn about how they distil grappa and gin of the highest export quality.
- Light lunch under the oaks at Uplands.
CLICK HERE FOR MORE INFO & ONLINE BOOKING
PASS OF THE WEEK
This tough little gravel road pass has some seriously steep sections, and could present a significant challenge in the ascending mode for both adventure bikers and 4x4 enthusiasts, particularly during or after inclement weather. The pass is located south of Cala on an unnamed dirt road in the backwaters of the Eastern Cape, on the access route between the KwaGoniwe Tyaliti Pass and the Kwaaimans Pass, and takes its name from the river which marks the eastern extremity. It is worth seeking out if you enjoy the peacefulness and beauty of rural South Africa, but we recommend that you make use of a high-clearance or 4-wheel drive vehicle.
* * K U M A N Z I M A H L E P A S S * *
Trygve Roberts
Editor
"Opinion is really the lowest form of human knowledge.
It requires no accountability and no understanding.
The highest form of knowledge is empathy, for it requires us to suspend our egos and live in another's world.
It requires profound purpose larger than the self kind of understanding" ~ Plato
